I am redoing a Ruger Mk II with some rust issues and am thinking about coating with a ceramic header paint that needs cooking at 600 degrees F.(I think my oven max out at 500F) I have concerns about heat treating what ain't supposed to be heat treated and degrading the heat treatment of hardened parts. Should I worry about the temper or annealing? I really would like to know from someone that knows for real the dangers of heating firearm components to that high or just to 500 F. No Conjecture only the truth and nothing but the truth. Danke RZ
Guns and High Temps
- Thread starter sgt z
- Start date
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Here is the phase diagram for steel.
Nothing going on until over 700 degrees F, but I wouldn't want to cool it down super quick. You might also need to worry about hot spots developing. This is only a general diagram for steel and may not include the alloy used. A good deal of care would need to be used.
IF I were you, I'd use something like Cerakote (250 degrees F) or one of the oxide coating kits like from http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/black.htm.
Header paint never seems to work that great on headers, so I wouldn't use it on a gun.
Nothing going on until over 700 degrees F, but I wouldn't want to cool it down super quick. You might also need to worry about hot spots developing. This is only a general diagram for steel and may not include the alloy used. A good deal of care would need to be used.
IF I were you, I'd use something like Cerakote (250 degrees F) or one of the oxide coating kits like from http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/black.htm.
Header paint never seems to work that great on headers, so I wouldn't use it on a gun.
Before I answer I'll ask a couple things,
1) Why that ?
2) How long at that temp?
Time at temp makes a huge difference in what happens to steel too. So does type and thickness.
Steel can do weird stuff after 250* when heated for any length of time and post heat temps are not controlled.
And if you don't have the ability to cook it at the right temp whats the point ? Be a shame to go through all that work for nothing.
I'm just using it because I had it from another project. I was going to use it on M-1 Garand Gas Cylinders and decided on using the Alumihyde from Brownells. I think I have to keep the cermic coating at temp for an hour, not sure. It says to heat in stages, 250, 400, 600 and it says for optimum fusion to heat to 600. I referenced the Machinists Handbook for an AK build, had a color temp chart and what applications were treated to the corresponding color/temp and most were below 700. I'll recheck that reference for the temp unit and make sure it was F. I have pretty much scrapped the idea of using ceramic coating just to use it. I don't think warping would be an issue if heated uniformly and slowly and without quenching.
Thanks for the help, great diagram but I couldn't understand it. I'll probably just park it.
Thanks for the help, great diagram but I couldn't understand it. I'll probably just park it.
Why not let T & T or Plate Tacular just re-coat this for you. I would be hard pressed to believe that it will be good for the gun to be cooked in an oven for any length of time. Not only would the manufactures have a hissy and void any warranty but how will this thing fit back together after you apply this coating? JMT
Beauxdog
Beauxdog
I once baked on that ceramic coat finish on a header. Cooked off of the header within a minute once I fired up the engine. I wouldn't put that crap anywhere near a firearm.
Hours of prep work, hours of coating in thin coats per the instructions, several hours of baking per the instructions all gone in 60 seconds. I was disappointed to say the least.
Hours of prep work, hours of coating in thin coats per the instructions, several hours of baking per the instructions all gone in 60 seconds. I was disappointed to say the least.
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Thanks ya'll. Ceramic coating is shelved. I'm gonna Manganese Phosphate Parkerize. I picked the gun up from a pawn shop and some one neglected it. The exterior is rusted in places and missing bluing in other places. probably sliding around the bottom of the boat or floorboards of the truck or both. I'll work it out.
