FreedomGunworks
"Fearless"
Mr. Darrah sent us his 9mm Trojan (Single Stack 1911) for a little work to include fitting/installing an SVI Interchangeable Trigger System, Wilson High Ride Ambi Safteties, and an Freedom Gunworks Ultimate Trigger job.
We started by breaking down the gun and fitting the SVI ITS trigger with medium flat insert. In order to do this, the trigger shoe must be reduced to fit in the frame slot of the trigger guard and the bow must be tweaked to ride in the bow rails in the frame with no resistance. An SVI ITS will not fit in an STI gun without modifications to both the width and height. Some of this I do on the milling machine, the rest is filed by hand.
The next step was to work on the trigger job. The Ti strut was removed from the factory hammer and installed on the Koenig hammer. We checked for squareness and height of the hammer hooks and found them to be within spec. Next we take the EGW hard sear and stone the primary angle and add a secondary angle. These parts are stoned to a mirror finish. I only use EGW sears because they are through hardened, meaning once you cut and polish the outer layer you still have hardened material. On other sears and most factory sears, they are only surface hardened, so cutting and polishing opens you up to soft material. When that happens, it causes a trigger to deteriorate over time, and the sharp angles are rounded which leads to problems like creep and hammer follow. With the EGW sear, we don't have these issues as the sear is hardened all the way through. Then we set the sear spring for sear tension and trigger return.
Finally, we installed the Wilson High Ride ambidextrous safety. On a new gun build, the thumb safety and grip safety would be installed in the frame and all of those are then blended together. Since this gun had a factory finish applied, we didn't have that luxury, so the safety has to be contoured out of the gun by eye and memory. This is an area that can become very uncomfortable if there is an overhang as it will rub and blister the inside of the thumb and pointer finger. Next the fire control components are installed in the gun and the thumb safety is cut. This is an area where I like to pay special attention. I want the safety post to contact the sear in its rotational travel, but I do not want it to bind or grind on the sear. One stroke of the file could be the difference here. The angle must be precise, and it needs a good finish on it to make it smooth.
Not requested but also done free of charge (because I felt it needed to be done and Mr. Curtis gives me freedom with his guns) was to contour the plunger tube side of the slide stop. This is another area where you have to be precise. You don't want to cut the slide stop tab so that you prevent the follower from engaging it and locking the slide back when the mag is empty, but it needs to be contoured so you can install the slide stop back in the gun with minimal effort. The slide stop for this gun was cut so that it was difficult to clear the plunger cap. I cut a 3 angle radius that will allow you to push up and in on the slide stop to make installation smoother without damaging the finish on the gun.
Here's a little video:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsiaZKZIbaA[/ame]
We started by breaking down the gun and fitting the SVI ITS trigger with medium flat insert. In order to do this, the trigger shoe must be reduced to fit in the frame slot of the trigger guard and the bow must be tweaked to ride in the bow rails in the frame with no resistance. An SVI ITS will not fit in an STI gun without modifications to both the width and height. Some of this I do on the milling machine, the rest is filed by hand.
The next step was to work on the trigger job. The Ti strut was removed from the factory hammer and installed on the Koenig hammer. We checked for squareness and height of the hammer hooks and found them to be within spec. Next we take the EGW hard sear and stone the primary angle and add a secondary angle. These parts are stoned to a mirror finish. I only use EGW sears because they are through hardened, meaning once you cut and polish the outer layer you still have hardened material. On other sears and most factory sears, they are only surface hardened, so cutting and polishing opens you up to soft material. When that happens, it causes a trigger to deteriorate over time, and the sharp angles are rounded which leads to problems like creep and hammer follow. With the EGW sear, we don't have these issues as the sear is hardened all the way through. Then we set the sear spring for sear tension and trigger return.
Finally, we installed the Wilson High Ride ambidextrous safety. On a new gun build, the thumb safety and grip safety would be installed in the frame and all of those are then blended together. Since this gun had a factory finish applied, we didn't have that luxury, so the safety has to be contoured out of the gun by eye and memory. This is an area that can become very uncomfortable if there is an overhang as it will rub and blister the inside of the thumb and pointer finger. Next the fire control components are installed in the gun and the thumb safety is cut. This is an area where I like to pay special attention. I want the safety post to contact the sear in its rotational travel, but I do not want it to bind or grind on the sear. One stroke of the file could be the difference here. The angle must be precise, and it needs a good finish on it to make it smooth.
Not requested but also done free of charge (because I felt it needed to be done and Mr. Curtis gives me freedom with his guns) was to contour the plunger tube side of the slide stop. This is another area where you have to be precise. You don't want to cut the slide stop tab so that you prevent the follower from engaging it and locking the slide back when the mag is empty, but it needs to be contoured so you can install the slide stop back in the gun with minimal effort. The slide stop for this gun was cut so that it was difficult to clear the plunger cap. I cut a 3 angle radius that will allow you to push up and in on the slide stop to make installation smoother without damaging the finish on the gun.
Here's a little video:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsiaZKZIbaA[/ame]
