Hand loading for Precision Rifle (Pic Heavy)
- Thread starter Barney88PDC
- Start date
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Barney88PDC
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It really is not the rifle but the brass. If you have a loaded round of ammo with the brass you are going to use then measure the neck of a loaded round and subtract 2-3 thousandths and that is the size bushing you need. I measured 3 different types of brass and the following is the size bushing you would need for the respective brands. Winchester .330, WCC NATO .334, Lapua .335 hope this helps.
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bronzdragon
Well-Known Member
Great write up! Very informative and thorough.
~rc~
~rc~
It helps, I dont have any loaded rounds anymore only brass. I found a formula with fired brass, measured quite a few and used an average. Ordered a couple bushings, which was better than ordering 10 or more. I am using FGMM brass, thats what I have most of. When it goes Ill get some Lapua or Winchester depending on how much fun money I have left.
Barney88PDC
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If you are loading for the absolute best accuracy get Lapua. It will give you better groups than Winchester. It is due to the brass being much more uniform case to case. Case volume and pressure are directly related.
Example:
The powder burning is going to create X amount of gas volume. Now if you put the same charge weight of powder in each case then the amount of "gas" is going to be constant. But this relates to pressure and pressure is what causes the force that propels the bullet. If we released the X amount of gas into say a 1 cubic foot vessel and we record the pressure. Then we release the same amount of gas into a 2 cubic foot vessel the pressure is going to be half (if the temperature is the same). Well the case is our "vessel" and we want our vessel's to be constant. The Lapua "vessel's" are much more constant so your velocities will be more consistent and thus your groups will be as well.
Example:
The powder burning is going to create X amount of gas volume. Now if you put the same charge weight of powder in each case then the amount of "gas" is going to be constant. But this relates to pressure and pressure is what causes the force that propels the bullet. If we released the X amount of gas into say a 1 cubic foot vessel and we record the pressure. Then we release the same amount of gas into a 2 cubic foot vessel the pressure is going to be half (if the temperature is the same). Well the case is our "vessel" and we want our vessel's to be constant. The Lapua "vessel's" are much more constant so your velocities will be more consistent and thus your groups will be as well.
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Barney88PDC
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The Drilling industry uses pallets of it so if the rig has some on location usually they will give me a sack if I ask nice.
And I work for the company who sells it to the drilling companies...
mineralman55
Well-Known Member
Powder Valley has 40lb sacks of both crushed walnut and corn cob for cheap. Look under "Maintenance/PVI".
Alright, I got my redding sizing die setup as stated. However, there is very very very little resistance when I am resizing my brass. Is it supposed to be this light? When I used my Hornady resizing die there is much more resistance when resizing.
Barney88PDC
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If you are using lube the resistance is not much. Just make sure the shoulder is getting bumped .002" back and you have the correct bushing in the die for your particular brass and you should be good to go. To make sure take a resized empty case and see if you can chamber it and close the bolt. As always if you are just starting out I would suggest you load no more than 20 and go shoot them to make sure you don't have any problems. Having to pull loaded rounds is a pain.
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I sized 3 or 4 and tried to chamber one of them, it wasnt like a factory round where the bolt closes. It some resistance closing the bolt, but not to much. I am measuring with the headspace guage to check every piece. I think my lee turret press just isnt accurate enough for this type of work. It seems I have to adjust for every piece of brass.
Barney88PDC
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Your turret head may be floating causing differences from piece to peice. I only load precision rifle on a single stage. RCBS Rock Chucker.
Barney88
You did a great job on the reloading process. Good pictures make the difference!
I'd like to add a couple small suggestions on adjusting the f/l die using the Hornady Headspace tool, or any tool measuring off the shoulder. Be cautious of a raised primer crater, which rides the opposite jaw of the caliper and will give a false reading by a few thousandths. You can try rubbing the base of the case (and primer) on a hard surface to reduce it, but the easiest cure is a product Sinclair sells; the Davidson Seating Depth Checker base. It clamps to the opposite jaw of the caliper and has a recessed base to fit various case head sizes and eliminates the problem.....as does the RCBS Case Mic, which has a hole drilled for the primer.
Another point is that brass sometimes takes two or three firings to fully fire form, so you might want to recheck head space after a firing or two.
And lastly, just in case someone needs to see the process firsthand, a shameless plug for my reloading class on May 21st at La. Gun & Reloading in B.R.
Lanny
You did a great job on the reloading process. Good pictures make the difference!
I'd like to add a couple small suggestions on adjusting the f/l die using the Hornady Headspace tool, or any tool measuring off the shoulder. Be cautious of a raised primer crater, which rides the opposite jaw of the caliper and will give a false reading by a few thousandths. You can try rubbing the base of the case (and primer) on a hard surface to reduce it, but the easiest cure is a product Sinclair sells; the Davidson Seating Depth Checker base. It clamps to the opposite jaw of the caliper and has a recessed base to fit various case head sizes and eliminates the problem.....as does the RCBS Case Mic, which has a hole drilled for the primer.
Another point is that brass sometimes takes two or three firings to fully fire form, so you might want to recheck head space after a firing or two.
And lastly, just in case someone needs to see the process firsthand, a shameless plug for my reloading class on May 21st at La. Gun & Reloading in B.R.
Lanny
jmanrogers
SGT JMAN
+1
How often do you trim the brass? Just on NEW brass or even on once or twice fired brass that was originally a factory load? ex. Federal Gold Medal Match 168gr Sierra Matchking BTHP
Barney88PDC
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Because the Giraud makes it so easy I trim after every firing. You only HAVE to trim once the brass is longer than the Max allowable length found in your reloading manual.
jmanrogers
SGT JMAN
That's what I thought and read in the Speer book, but I've also read where some people trim after every firing. Thanks again!
