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  • watchmaker

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    Jan 1, 2008
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    They wern't available two years ygo, but you might want to check out the new NiMH hybrid batteries. They're rechargeable, but don't suffer from the "trickle down" of the old generation rechargeables. So far, I think they're only available in AA and AAA, but they'll hopefully cone out in 123 and other sizes soon.


    The new high current NIMHS batteries such as the POWEREX 2700 mah used in the Black Bear 720 lumens rechargeable flashlight, are state of the art, and with a very low self discharge of 1/2 of 1 %.
    Meaning that you can have the light away from the charger for three months or more.
    Nimh rechargeables are much better than alkaline. not only in saving money, but with alkaline batteries it is no way to power a 3 amp super-bulb like the one that is used in the Black Bear 720 or the Borealis 1050 lumens flashlights.

    These batteries are way more powerful than the Ni Cads that are used in other rechargeable lights, and they don't suffer from memory problems like the Ni Cads do.
    Recharging can be done as fast as 90 minutes with the new chargers that are pulse/reverse pulse charging, and not overheat the batteries.

    The new Sanyo Eneloops are also good at keeping the charge for a very long time, they are not used in the Black Bear 720 just because the Eneloops have only 2,000 mah, thus it will reduce the run time in comparison with the Powerex 2700 mah.

    Regards
    Watchmaker
     

    rm76

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    Watchmater, what is the diameter of the Fenix T-1 housing body? Reason I ask is, I'm wondering if it would fit a 1-inch light mount for picatinny rail system? Also, would the recessed push button present a serious problem for thumb operation? I see from their web site that they sell a model without the pocket clip.
     

    watchmaker

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    Watchmater, what is the diameter of the Fenix T-1 housing body? Reason I ask is, I'm wondering if it would fit a 1-inch light mount for picatinny rail system? Also, would the recessed push button present a serious problem for thumb operation? I see from their web site that they sell a model without the pocket clip.


    Yes, it will fit the 1" ring.
    Get the one without a clip.

    The recessed push button is okay for the thumb, but as it does not protude you can't use it with the Rogers-Surefire position.

    Watchmaker
     

    rm76

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    Thanks for the info!!! Also, thanks for your excellent review and comments in this thread!!!
     

    watchmaker

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    Thank you guys,

    THE FENIX P3D
    FLASHLIGHT

    I have purchased yet another light of the Fenix line. The new torch is the Fenix P3D, a multi-level light running on two 123 batteries.
    The P3D I bought uses a premium (Q5) Cree 7090 XR-E LED. The light is digitally regulated and has six levels of illumination.

    There are two modes of output that are selected by turning the bezel. The general mode is: 12 lumens for 65 hours, by softly pressing the switch; the second mode will be 53 lumens for 13 hours; pressing again will put you in the 120 lumen mode for 4.8 hours; and again will access the SOS mode (also 120 lumens).

    By turning the bezel you can access the turbo mode at 205 lumens, and pressing again softly on the switch will put you in the strobe mode of 205 lumens.

    The light has a low battery indicator. The indicator will strobe the light in low, very fast light; I had opportunity to test this when I put two inexpensive 123 batteries that I thought were both fully charged.
    It seems that one of them was with a very low charge, even though it was a new purchase. I had learned to use only the best 123 batteries that I believe are the Surefire brand.
    Putting the Surefire batteries in the P3D allowed the light to operate without a hitch.

    The light is 4.5” long and 0.8 in diameter. The anodizing is type III finish and the lens has an anti-reflective coating similar to what is put in eyeglasses.

    fxp3d.jpg


    As like the other models of Fenix lights, the P3D also can be used in candle mode, as the rubber button doesn’t protrude like in other lights that are uses as tactical.
    A word of advice; use the 205 lumen mode very sparingly. The light gets hot very quickly in this mode and the excessive heat can damage the Cree emitter if used for a long time. If you need a light that can be used without damaging the LED in the higher setting for a long run, you have to purchase the Fenix T-1 that has a massive heat sink and bulky head that will draw the heat away from the Cree.

    As the LED’s lack the infrared spectrum of light, the heat is concentrated near the head, instead of been thrown forward as the incandescent lights do.
    The light comes with a handy holster. This is one torch that I don’t mind not having a clip, as the holster is very flat and comfortable to wear.

    This light is so handy that it has replaced my Surefire E2e that was the light I used to wear for years when I went out of the house. I also have another light on my key chain, another Fenix product, the L1D, a one AA battery light with multiple levels.
    Carrying now the two Fenixes, I will have light for a long time if I am involved in a situation that I need to use them.

    The P3D can be used as a tactical light if the distance involved is short, like in an interior house situation. However, if the light were to be used to illuminate somebody in the back yard, the brightness of the 205 lumens at say, my usual distance of 26 yards, will be not be sufficient to blind a person as the tactical lights are supposed to do. I know because I tested it on myself at that distance, and the blinding effect was not present.

    To illustrate the point I use another light that is also in the 220 lumens bracket, the Bear Cub incandescent, 220 lumens for 90 minutes. If you look at the pictures you will notice how strong the concentrated white beam of the Bear Cub is in comparison to the flood light of the P3D.
    Also notice to the right of the subject how the incandescent light reveals leaves that are not shown in the beam of the Fenix. This is the famous lack of definition that I often talk in my posts; it can be translated as lack of detail from the LED beam.

    For that reason I think that the 26 yards to the fence is the maximum range of the little reflector of the P3D. Bigger reflectors like in the Fenix T-1 with the same Cree Q,5 can reach as far as 50 yards. A word of advice, don’t try to make the little, svelte P3D do the job that is designed for the T-1, just confine the P3D for the house and other places with short range. After all what you should try to achieve if using a light in a tactical situation, is to indentify the subject as an intruder (it could be a member of you family or a friend of your son or daughter).

    The light has to be powerful enough to blind the person, giving you time to appreciate if the intruder is armed and with what, and if you are justified to shoot the intruder. This last step of indentifying the armament requires more time than you realize, as it is easy to (after being woken from a sound sleep) see a gun in the guy’s hands when he is actually holding a cell phone.

    Taking into consideration all these precautions, so as not to shoot an innocent person that could be in your house as a guest of your son or daughter, my choice is a big powerful light (like the Borealis 1050 lumens) carried in the off hand and NOT lined up with the muzzle of my gun at all, just because I don’t want to cover an innocent person with my muzzle.

    That is why I am not big fan of the tactical rail pistol lights, and when I clear my house (Had to do it twice in the last three months) my muzzle is looking down at the floor. It will take just a fraction of a second to raise it and tighten the grip to activate the laser. I much prefer the use of the laser if any shooting is to be done, as it avoids the tunnel vision that occurs when you place your gun in front of your face in a low light situation.

    I have practiced with the laser grips for the last two years, and the speed of my response has improved by 33%. It is hard to beat a laser-aimed pistol to respond to low light encounters. It is way much better than night sights that have a relatively short spam of use when used by themselves, and are unnecessary when using with a light.

    P3D beam from 26 yards,

    fenix15feet.jpg


    Bear Cub beam from 26 yards

    bc15feet.jpg



    Coming back to the P3D, it has a strobe effect in the 205 lumens setting; it will not do anything different to my eyes than the actual steady 205 lumens light can do. Must be all my disco dancing in the ’70 had me accustomed to the strobe effect.

    The little torch is good, that is why it is my new light over the E2e. Placed in the holster or in your pants pocket, you hardly know that the light is there and a lot of cool features and power are just at your fingertips.
    I recommend it highly.
    Regards
    Watchmaker
     

    watchmaker

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    HUSKY 2 D 3 WATT LED FLASHLIGHT


    I was at Home Depot and I spied a new light in the flashlight section. The new torch is a HUSKY brand, which is a brand name of Home Depot. I have used some of their inexpensive lights; they are made in China and represent a good value in some models.

    The new light uses two D batteries (that are included in the package) and the source of light is a three watt LED. The difference in this torch is that the switch activates three different levels of illumination.
    The package lacks any instructions and doesn’t even mention the output of the light or the run time. So I am guessing that the first mode (the first click) is a 12 lumens light, second click at 40 lumens and the last click about 80 lumens.

    The idea of having three different levels is good, it will conserve battery juice when you just need a little light for illumination, and at the same time, the other two settings are there for more lumens when you need to reach farther or put out more intensity.
    As this thread is all about comparisons, I decided to pit the new HUSKY against a Maglite 2D LED 3 watt that I bought a few months ago. I purchased the Maglite from Wal Mart for $24 USD, but I think that it was on sale at the time, still price wise the two lights. Compare.

    The HUSKY is ½” shorter, otherwise they compare physically to each other and they weight the same, although the HUKY have a slightly smaller head.
    The outside of the Husky is finished in a slightly duller anodizing than the Maglite; both lights look handsome on the outside.
    In the inside the Husky shows the threads of the tail-cap, body and head very rough. Removing the head I found an adequate heat sink, although the mounting of the LED looks a little lousy. I wanted to take a look at the reflector and plastic lens, but it was not possible to remove the bezel despite my superhuman and my weight-lifter friend efforts - the bezel seems to have been super-glued in place.

    The tail-cap sports a flimsy lanyard that I will not trust to hold the light for long, and looking inside at the switch, I found it very cheesy looking, more appropriate for a toy than for a flashlight. The little strip of metal where the battery makes contact with the switch, it doesn’t look good either.

    The Maglite 2D on the other hand, is a high quality product with butter smooth threads, a switch that will last forever and a lot of well thought-out features (cam action, self cleaning switch, etc).
    The Maglite is an American product that should cost much more of what it does now. Old timers may recall that when they first show up in the 1980’s the price tag was $60 USD and that they were selling like hot cakes, the engineering of the Maglite was at that time well above any of the existing lights, including the Kel-Lite.

    In the picture you can see the Maglite 2D LED on left, the Husky light in the middle, and the red one on right is a Black Bear 720 lumens, (1 ½ million candlepower) a custom made light that shows how much illumination we can put into a Maglite “host” 2D, with a little ingenuity, and if the people are willing to pay the price of a custom product.

    husky.jpg



    Here are the beam shots for comparison, 35 yards to the fence.

    HUSKY 3 watt

    beamone.jpg


    MAGLITE 3 watt

    beam2.jpg


    BLACK BEAR 720 LUMENS

    beam3bb720.jpg



    My impression is that the Maglite has a much better beam, in color rendition and in intensity. Also, I can throw the beam of the Maglite much further than the Husky, even that both lights are 3 watt, the Maglite is better in quality of LED and power.
    Granted - the Maglite has a 2” full reflector, while the Husky could be only 1 ¾ “ that could account for the better throw, but the Maglite definitely has a whiter beam and it is more intense.

    All the best
    Watchmaker
     

    watchmaker

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    any reviews in the future on the surefire e2d and e1 led?


    I have a review of the E2e (same lamp and reflector and output as the E2D)




    THE SUREFIRE E2E
    here is one more:
    As the Surefire E2e is a very common light in the bow hunting and gun hunting scene and also for law enforcement, here it is.


    The little MN03 lamp (60 lumens for 75 minutes) in the E2e is a big performer, I like myself this little light a lot, and I think it qualifies as a tactical light to be used at close to medium range if the need arose.
    The MN02 lamp can be substituted for more run time, as it is 25 lumens for 2 1/2 hours, I actually prefer this lamp for hiking in the trails and other general chores, but I will use the 60 lumens lamp for blood trailing a deer or bear.

    Red, blue and infrared filters are available from Surefire and vendors such as Cabela's. The red is used to walk in the trails or follow the cat-eye tacks when you go toward the stand in the pre-dawn darkness and don’t want to pollute the woods with light, and the blue to bring up the blood drops in the leaves.

    The E2e is 4 1/2 inches long and weighs at 3 .1 oz., is available in hard anodized type III and will not scratch easily, but it can be rough on your pocket liner. Other finishes are available sometimes. A tear drop bezel model is done in nickel plated and the wine light in regular anodized with a wine burgundy color.

    Here is a picture of a few of the versions of the E2e.

    E2eseries.jpg




    And here is the beam shot at the same distance as the others above (26 yards) and the camera placed at the same distance (12 feet to the Deer head and 18 to the Bear head).


    SurE2ebeam.jpg


    I can tell you that the light is fairly waterproof. I don’t have a pool to try it at a few feet, but it survived quite well in my 3 ½ gallon beer glass for several hours.

    etwoagua.jpg


    Kind regards,


    Watchmaker
     

    watchmaker

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    Q-BEAM MAX MILLION II
    TWO MILLION CANDLEPOWER
    SPOTLIGHT

    I very recently bought a new Q-Beam two million candlepower spotlight. I am a big user of spotlights, in my case I use them to give demonstration of the power of the Borealis 1050 lumens flashlight, in police reunions, night shots, and seminars.

    When my eight month-old battery for my two million candlepower Optronics spotlight gave up the ghost, I had to get a new spotlight.
    I spied the Q-Beam at Wal-Mart and I bought it on the spot. It is a large spotlight with a four-and-three-quarters inch reflector, and with some extra features not available in other spotlights.

    For starters, it comes with two removable batteries. One battery could be on the light while the other is charging, a good feature. Unfortunately, in my case, one of the batteries was already dead and is not recharging. I will have to return the unit and get another, hoping for better luck.

    However, bad batteries are nothing new in big spotlights. It seems that the Chinese haven’t gotten the hang of making lead acid batteries last any decent amount of time. I know; I have the corpses of seven spotlights to prove it (some day I will get around to rounding them up and take a picture of them).

    I can safely say that I have tried all of them, and I can tell you that a quality spotlight is not available in the USA, unless you buy one of the Australian’s Night Force spotlights. Australians, with their liberal night hunting laws, know a thing or two more about night hunting and lights that the average American hunter does.

    For law enforcement the panorama is different. With the advent of the Borealis 1050 lumens flashlight (12 ½” long, 28 oz) a spotlight in the cruiser is no longer needed.
    After all, spotlight use for law enforcement is confined to operation from the car, which is why you don’t see a trooper conducting a traffic stop with spotlight in hand or chasing down a suspect with one in tow.

    Coming back to the Q-Beam Max Million II, it also has another feature that was not available before in any other spotlight; a double trigger that when touched high, can activate mechanically a spring that will push the smaller part of the two-part reflector/ bulb holder, forward. This causes the focus to change to a wider flood; interesting concept, but perhaps of dubious utility. I have seen it employed in flashlights before, but by the use of two filaments positioned in the bulb envelope at different heights.

    Here is a picture of the Q-Beam together with the Borealis

    qbeamspotnew.jpg


    Unfortunately the Achilles’ heel of any spotlight is the quality of its batteries. In the normal use that I give them, they never last more than 6 to 8 months, which is why I am not looking to pay more than half a century note for one, with is just what the new Q-Beam cost me at Wal-Mart.

    How does it compare with the Borealis 1050 lumens (two million candlepower)?
    To answer that question, I move them to the backyard of my local church, where I have a solid wall of trees and a range of 35 yards (I try to avoid solid light-painted walls that produce too much reflection and confuse the camera).

    Q-Beam Max II Spotlight

    q-beamtwomill.jpg


    Borealis 1050 lumens flashlight

    boreroja.jpg



    Black Bear 720 lumens flashlight

    bb720be.jpg




    The new Spotlight did well in comparison, but it is more inside the range of the Black Bear 720 lumens (10 “ long 23 oz) than of the more powerful Borealis. Here are the pictures for you to judge; of course the Borealis and the BB 720 are better law enforcement tools as the side spill is bigger and the intensity and the color are brighter. Of course, you need side spill to avoid panning a tight focus’ light and losing precious seconds when clearing a room or warehouse.

    For those that use the Q-Beam for varmint shooting (with a partner to hold the light of course) the light will do okay up to 300 yards.

    For that use you can take advantage of the red filter (at shorter distance) and the other two filters, ( blue and amber), are completely useless for varmint shooting and for any other use I can imagine, as I can not see a blood tracker using such a big spotlight with the blue filter on it.

    Respectfully,
    Watchmaker
     

    AfterShock

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    Apr 7, 2008
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    I bought a max million 2 from wal mart and the battery lasted 2 outings. Complete waste of my $40. Well I guess not a complete waste. It still works from the cigarette lighter, so I can use it while tethered to the truck, but for the use I bought it for, cordless operation, it failed. Like you said, the batteries are garbage.
     

    watchmaker

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    FLASHLIGHTS FOR SELF DEFENSE

    As strange as it sounds, some flashlights are used for self defense quite often in daily life.
    Sometimes by professionals Police Officers in a way to avoid using deadly force in confrontations with suspects, and other times by civilians that are not permitted to carry lethal weapons.

    In the US we have it quite good in that we are allowed to carry short knives and some others implements but in the majority of Europe such activities are illegal or highly frowned upon by the authorities.

    If you defend yourself with a baseball bat even in your own home in certain countries you have to give reason for why you have such an implement with you.

    Other lights use others means of incorporating defense mechanisms in their construction. I am thinking now about the ARES Defense Companion, a Maglite with 3 cells that incorporates a shotgun of 410 gauge (only one picture is circulating in the Internet and I think is not in production) or the Tiger Light that incorporates a pepper spray canister, or the several models of Surefire that come with crenellated bezels (one example is the popular E2D executive Defender).

    Surefire was the first (to my knowledge) at popularizing the crenellated bezel and the SureFire Institute offers a class in basic defensive tactics called “The power of Light” which is open to all qualified civilians as well as law enforcement professionals .
    The course is taught by certified instructor Steve Tarani (shown below delivering a carotid strike).

    SteveTarani.jpg



    The Borealis flashlight can be had with the optional heavy stainless steel crenellated bezel that is offered in a limited production run.
    Such bezels add 3 ounces to the weight of the head and the bezel even that is not actually sharp will be a good imitation of the broken beer bottle.
    I don’t think that an aggressor, if he is in his right mind, will confront such a weapon that first will blind him with 1050 lumens and then is ready to rearrange his facial features.

    cbezel.jpg




    The Royal Borealis uses a Quick Detach Swivel, that when used only with the nub for the lanyard, can be very hard on skulls and noses.

    swivelmag.jpg


    This old Borealis model sports the heavy 3 inch head (the head is now out of production), more resembling a medieval mace. This is also a fantastic throw monster reaching over several hundred yards.

    bigandflash.jpg


    I have in my long association with the flashlight Industry seen a few models which spray OC from the front of the lens, flashlight that also incorporate a screaming siren, flashlights that incorporate a stun gun and others weird contraptions all of them gone from the market now.

    What seems to prevail is just a good weight reliable flashlight that can be used as a baton or with the new crenellated bezels and the introduction of really powerful MEGA lights capable of blinding an assailant.

    Best regards,
    Watchmaker
     

    watchmaker

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    THE UTG BARREL MOUNT



    Hi guys,
    For those wanting a barrel mount for a flashlight or laser, I have had good
    results with the UTG barrel mount.
    Initially purchased for an AK rifle, I found out that it can be mounted in
    other rifle barrels, for example, it fits perfectly in a .22 rifle and also in
    a Mini 14 I have.

    It is a tri-rail mount with three Picattiny rails that will also accept Weaver
    style rings. My model is the #2 mount which have two slots; the UTG is also
    available with five slots that will accommodate the red dots scopes that are
    in the market.

    Picture of the UTG # 2

    utgtwo.jpg

    ]

    Another view


    utgone.jpg




    The UTG fully loaded with two TACM III tactical lights (one with a red filter)
    and a laser.


    utg3.jpg



    The UTG is sold by Cheaper than Dirt and I imagine others places that cater to
    tactical rifles. Just look in their catalogue in the AK accessories page.

    Cheers
    Watchmaker
     

    watchmaker

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    REMOTE SWITCHES
    WITH PRESSURE PAD

    Hi guys,
    I have been using remote switches in my tactical lights that are mounted in rifles, shotguns, and bows, for quite a few years now.
    The most effective of them are the ones with a direct connection to the solder pad that touch the battery (no spring), like the ones in the TACM III tactical lights.
    The reason that they are more effective is that they don’t rob the system of any voltage (in the way of internal resistance) as do the ones with heavy springs.

    Internal resistance is the name of the game, some of them, for example the TAC STAR pressure switch, can really make a bright lamp like the P-60, looks dim and murky, due to too much internal resistance in the design of the tail cap.

    THE TAC STAR REMOTE SWITCH

    weaponlight.jpg


    A good one that I have used for years in mounting lights on my friends’ bows and rifles, is the G&P tail cap with remote. Its design is quite good and the internal resistance is low, but it is not designed for pump shotguns as the cord is just straight and not curly.

    THE G&P REMOTE SWITCH

    gp_tapeswitch.jpg


    A very good one that I discovered recently is the Aimshot curly cord remote, the spring is copper and quite light and it seems to have very low internal resistance.
    I discovered the Aimshot in Cheaper Than Dirt catalogue and at a very good price ($14.97) and it has become my favorite.
    I just used one in a Pelican M-6 tactical light and mounted it using a UTG Tri rail mount in an AK rifle, it does the job well.

    THE AIMSHOT REMOTE SWITCH

    aimshotremote.jpg


    Cheers
    Watchmaker
     

    watchmaker

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    THE 200 LUMENS BATTLE

    There are now a number of aftermarket lamps for the popular series of Surefire lights.
    They will fit the Surefires series: 6P, C, Z, D, G, and maybe others.

    I just received a new one that claims 290 lumens and is called a Cree R-2 (it’s supposed to be even more powerful than the Cree Q-5).
    I decided to do a shoot out with an assortment of lights that I have in the 200 plus lumens class. That way the members can see how they perform against each other.

    Run time was not measured for lack of time and because I am running short on 123’s batteries. The bigger lights, namely the Surefire M-4 with the MN60 lamp (225 lumens for 60 minutes on four 123’s disposable batteries) and the Bear Cub from Black Bear Flashlights (220 lumens for 90 minutes on rechargeable Li Ion batteries) are big throwers and with them you can see clearly objects 120 and 150 yards away.

    On the other hand the small reflectors of the Surefires G-2, Centurion 2 and Fenix T-1 are dispersing all those lumens close by, creating a great flood.
    Those pocket lights will be great to use as tactical lights by law enforcement personnel, and especially good at clearing houses, while the Surefire M-4 and the Bear Cub will make great lights for car, truck and the open spaces.

    The literature of the Fenix states that it’s good for 200 yards, it will probably make a reflective target like a stop sign glow at that distance, but it would hardly illuminate any other object. My perception from trials I made, is that this light as well as the others LED’s can’t be count to illuminate (poorly) objects beyond 60/70 yards.


    In any case, a lamp upgrade if you own a Surefire pocket light, is a good idea as any of them are more powerful than the stock incandescent lamp of 65 lumens or the stock LED lamp of 80 lumens.


    The lights as they appear in the picture are, from left to right:


    Surefire M-4 MN60 lamp 225 lumens for 1 hour (running on four 123’s batteries)
    Bear Cub 220 lumens for 90 minutes, rechargeable
    Surefire G-2 in yellow. It is 65 lumens for one hour with the stock P-60 lamp
    Surefire G-2 in black, Lumen Factory lamp incandescent of 160 lumens
    Surefire G-2 in green, Cree Q-5 by Deal Xtreme, 200 lumens
    Surefire Centurion 2 in Jungle Camo, 290 lumens (claimed) with the Cree R-2 lamp
    Fenix T-1, 225 lumens using a Cree Q-5 lamp

    S5300167200lumensplus.jpg



    And now the pictures, target is 20 yards away, watch also the amount of side spill as well as the throw.

    SUREFIRE M-4 DESVASTATOR 225 LUMENS

    desvastatorm-4225.jpg


    BEAR CUB RECHARGEABLE 220 LUMENS

    bc220one.jpg


    SUREFIRE G-2 YELLOW 65 LUMENS

    g-265lumens.jpg


    SUREFIRE G-2 BLACK LUMENS FACTORY 160 LUMENS LAMP

    g2black160lum.jpg


    SUREFIRE G-2 GREEN, DEAL XTREME LAMP CREE Q-5 200 LUMENS

    g2greencreede.jpg


    SUREFIRE CENTURION 2, CREE R-2 290 LUMENS (CLAIMED)

    surc-2cjcreer-2290.jpg


    FENIX T-1 CREE Q-5 225 LUMENS

    fenixt1q5225.jpg




    One word of caution with high intensity LED lights: most are not thermally regulated and they will suffer from their own heat if used for an extended period. They will get very hot and the tint will change. Short use of 5 minutes or less is recommended, especially in lights like the G-2 that has a plastic body and head.

    All metal flashlights like the Surefire 6P are better at dissipating the heat, and in them a few more minutes of constant use can be achieved before the heat will damage the module.
    The big heavy head of the Fenix acts as a heat sink, and this light can manage to run much longer without the heat affecting the module.

    Besides, the Fenix has a second setting that will run the light at 60 lumens for 10 hours.
    So, if you already have a Surefire you want to upgrade, the aftermarkets lamps are great.
    If you need a new light look at the Fenix line.

    If you need a truck, open spaces light, the Bear Cub is a great value as it is rechargeable and very bright as well as a 150 yards thrower.

    Cheers
    Watchmaker
     

    watchmaker

    Well-Known Member
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    Jan 1, 2008
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    New York
    You're generally correct; but I have two lights that are the exception to that rule.

    The secret to making LEDs throw like a hot wire is the reflector. Have you checked out the factory Mag-Lite LED D-cell lights? Throw for days.

    The other light is a custom Aleph, produced by Don McLeish out in Kalifornia. Go to www.lightforum.com and do a quick search for Aleph. Mine is an AL-2, 2@123 light with the large reflector. A bit large for EDC in the pocket, but plenty small enough for "accessory" carry and a LOT more handy than that 3D MagLite club.

    Becoming a light freak is every bit as bad as jonesin for guns. Worse, actually, because the lights generally are affordable, so you buy every one you develop an interest in.

    I just ordered another SureFire A2 yesterday. My old one, a Katrina veteran, was given to a young colleague when I retired. But two nights ago, during dim-light quals, I realized I missed the extreme versatility of the A2, and the 3-watt AA-powered LED light I was using was just another wanna-be.

    Good thread (and work), watchmaker. There is a lot of ignorance and confusion out there regarding flashlights. Your thoughts are pretty much spot-on, IMO.

    .

    The reason that the Maglite 3 watt LED have a good throw is the 2" deep reflector. The bigger the reflector the better the throw.

    I too have one of the Mc Gizmo lights, mine is done with a PR T (Pelican reflector Turbo).
    It is about 130 lumens
    Here it is

    E2OPRT.jpg


    Best
    Watchmaker
     
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