Tips on Preparing For Hard Freeze.

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  • JBP55

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    Posted by a Matte's Plumbing on Facebook: Good morning! Here's some tips from a plumber on this up coming freeze this week. Please do your best to prepare.
    If this coming freeze is anything like the one that hit Baton Rouge in the late 80’s, plumbers will be over whelmed, and many families will not find a plumber for a couple weeks. There are lessons learned from that nightmare. Turn the heat up in your house when it gets below freezing, especially when it is in the 20’s or lower, or low 30’s with a strong wind chill. You can decrease the heat in your bedroom by adjusting the vent there, so you can still sleep comfortably with the heat turned up. Open a 1 foot gap in your attic stairway to let the heat into your attic. Back then, even the pipes insulated in attics and in walls froze and busted. Many homeowners didn’t realize it until their pipes unfroze and flooded their homes. Important that you know how to cut your water off and that you don’t leave your home unattended if your pipes freeze. Don’t use a blow dryer to unfreeze your pipes without it being plugged to a ground fault electrical cord or receptacle, and don’t use it at all if you find the pipe has a crack or break. To any wannabe plumbers, don’t use a solder torch outside close to any opening in the brick like the tiny gap beside an outside faucet pipe, that’s an easy way for a fire to start in the wall. Inside your home, open the cabinet doors to any kitchen sink or lavatory on an outside wall to allow heat in, many pipes busted in the wall in the last huge freeze, despite having insulation. If your house is off the ground, cut a 3 ft wide roll of plastic sheet and wrap all around the bottom of your house. If you have an outside washer or hot water heater, place a work lamp light high up or electric heater away from all of the plumbing just to provide some heat in the room, it’s important that you use an electrical cord or receptacle for the heater or lamp light that has a ground fault breaker. Insulation to outside faucets and water lines to the house may not be enough, install extra insulation or cover the insulation with plastic bags, anything that can provide more cover from the wind and hard freeze. Don’t run a steady stream on your faucets to prevent freezing, it decreases the water pressure for firemen and others, instead use one faucet to drip every couple seconds on the hot side which allows water to move very slowly on both hot and cold. The best method of protecting your pipes is by providing added insulation and heat in your attic, under your house, and in the cabinets of fixtures in your home. For a vacant house or house left unattended, don’t just cut the water off, use air pressure to blow existing water out of the hot and cold lines. What is most heartbreaking about a massive hard freeze and having many pipes busting is not just seeing the damage that occurs, it’s also being forced to pick which customers we cant get to in a day or week out of the thousands affected.
    Sincerely, Mark with Matte’s Plumbing
     
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    John_

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    Plumb your house with pex.
    I have PEX in my current house. Pex doesn't last as long as copper piping. The driver (or move to) for pex is BC it's cheaper than copper piping, bottom line. And most of the connections are brass or hard plastic so yes while the pex line itself may endure freezing somewhat better, the connectors will not. All copper piping in any residential home is a much better system than pex, imo.
    Pex came from trailers B4 residential application. Much cheaper than copper, easier to install, 2/3 the lifespan.

    PEX vs copper
     
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    sandman7925

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    My last house I was constantly dealing with frozen pipes. Shark bite fittings made me feel like a master plumber. I learned the hard way that they’re great for a short term fix but long term they’re problematic. Just FYI.
     

    John_

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    Tip for those who have tankless water heaters like I do. The supply piping to the actual heater as it exits the exterior wall is vulnerable to low temps and freezing, in the lower cabinet. Most plumbers/home builders do not insulate this piping and the connections. The heater has electric tracing to prevent the heater piping from freezing, but if you lose power, all bets are off. If your tankless water heater freezes up in a PF, it will be damaged. The heater tubing is metal, copper or AL.

    Mine froze up a few years ago in temps around 18 to 20F, the supply piping in the lower section of the cabinet. I quickly went out and defrosted with my electric heat gun. Its hard to insulate the supply piping BC its short and close together. I did my best, but I know it is susceptible in a hard freeze. My unit is mounted on my garage wall outside, garage unheated hence not a lot of help for water heater piping, or the unit itself.

    So if your grid power ceases, run a hot water faucet in the kitchen or a bath room sink, pencil stream to protect your tankless water heater and its piping in freezing temps. <25F, no elect power, and you def could have a problem. Insulate the supply and return piping to the heater in the lower portion of the cabinet.

    On a related subject, my heater is nat gas fired. I researched how to connect my port generator power via an extension cord to have a nice hot shower even with a long term entergy power failure. Like after Ida (9 full days for me), I had to take 2 cold showers and it sucked! No more. Most tankless water heaters require 120V to fire up/heat the water. The thermostat and firing controls operates on elect power. Doesn't draw much, maybe 1 amp. So you can run a simple connection/extension cord from your port generator and have a functioning NG fired water heater in an extended total power failure. Oh yeah baby!
     

    AustinBR

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    On a related subject, my heater is nat gas fired. I researched how to connect my port generator power via an extension cord to have a nice hot shower even with a long term entergy power failure. Like after Ida (9 full days for me), I had to take 2 cold showers and it sucked! No more. Most tankless water heaters require 120V to fire up/heat the water. The thermostat and firing controls operates on elect power. Doesn't draw much, maybe 1 amp. So you can run a simple connection/extension cord from your port generator and have a functioning NG fired water heater in an extended total power failure. Oh yeah baby!
    Do you remember how you did this? My tankless heater is seemingly wired directly into the breaker box and is not plugged into any outlet that I can see.
     

    highstandard40

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    My last house I was constantly dealing with frozen pipes. Shark bite fittings made me feel like a master plumber. I learned the hard way that they’re great for a short term fix but long term they’re problematic. Just FYI.
    Shark bite fittings rely on o-rings to seal. O-rings can and do fail over time. Shark bites are easy but also kinda pricey.
     

    John_

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    Do you remember how you did this? My tankless heater is seemingly wired directly into the breaker box and is not plugged into any outlet that I can see.
    Mine is the same Austin. You have to get your brand/manufacturer and model # of your water heater and go to the manufacturer's website and view the wiring diagram of the unit. What you want is the wiring connection to power up the water heater. It may be in the WH new installation instructions too. I sourced my WH wiring diagram on line, and DL'ed it. Its 2 wires and a ground (120 volt). Mine was in a small metal enclosure after removing the external cover panel (like 4 phillips head screws). In a sustained power outage for days, make sure you turn off or open the breaker first for the water heater @ your breaker panel. You then take off the WH outer cover, find the contractor/plumber wiring connections, and disconnect the hard wiring source. Then connect a home made pigtail using the same wire nuts and plug it into an extension cord and to your port generator. It takes a bit of pre-planning and 5 minutes on on line research. I keep mine (the homemade pigtail connection) handy for any extended outage, hurricanes. The pigtail can be assembled from a $5 extension cord at walmart. Cut off the female end and strip the wires back 1/2" for connection. Plug male into longer heavy duty extension cord and on to ur gen. Like I said above, the current draw is < 1 amp @ 120 volts (least it is for my WH) so you don't need a heavy ext cord for the pigtail connector. The cheap walmart ext cord will work fine.

    I run my extension cord for the WH in my nearest window for access and close it down to minimum. Use an old towel to seal the window opening/crack. seal out mosquitos or other flying bugs.

    edit: Have to add to the above I am not an electrician and what I'm recommending above does not meet any electrical codes. Its simply my way of making my natural gas fired water heater functional during an extended power outage. It does work. Do not exceed your own capabilities or skill level! If unsure or any doubt, DO NOT DO IT.
     
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    AustinBR

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    Mine is the same Austin. You have to get your brand/manufacturer and model # of your water heater and go to the manufacturer's website and view the wiring diagram of the unit. What you want is the wiring connection to power up the water heater. It may be in the WH new installation instructions too. I sourced my WH wiring diagram on line, and DL'ed it. Its 2 wires and a ground (120 volt). Mine was in a small metal enclosure after removing the external cover panel (like 4 phillips head screws). In a sustained power outage for days, make sure you turn off or open the breaker first for the water heater @ your breaker panel. You then take off the WH outer cover, find the contractor/plumber wiring connections, and disconnect the hard wiring source. Then connect a home made pigtail using the same wire nuts and plug it into an extension cord and to your port generator. It takes a bit of pre-planning and 5 minutes on on line research. I keep mine (the homemade pigtail connection) handy for any extended outage, hurricanes. The pigtail can be assembled from a $5 extension cord at walmart. Cut off the female end and strip the wires back 1/2" for connection. Plug male into longer heavy duty extension cord and on to ur gen. Like I said above, the current draw is < 1 amp @ 120 volts (least it is for my WH) so you don't need a heavy ext cord for the pigtail connector. The cheap walmart ext cord will work fine.

    I run my extension cord for the WH in my nearest window for access and close it down to minimum. Use an old towel to seal the window opening/crack. seal out mosquitos or other flying bugs.

    edit: Have to add to the above I am not an electrician and what I'm recommending above does not meet any electrical codes. Its simply my way of making my natural gas fired water heater functional during an extended power outage. It does work. Do not exceed your own capabilities or skill level! If unsure or any doubt, DO NOT DO IT.
    Well damn, I appreciate you writing that out, but that absolutely exceeds what I'd be willing to do, personally. I don't like to fiddle with electricity unless it's simple tasks and in this case, I'd see myself catching something on fire, breaking my water heater, or shocking the **** out of myself.

    At some point I'll probably have an electrician take a look at it and see if there is a more "code-friendly" workaround...such as maybe connecting the water heater into a normal outlet where I could plug it into the generator.
     

    John_

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    Well damn, I appreciate you writing that out, but that absolutely exceeds what I'd be willing to do, personally. I don't like to fiddle with electricity unless it's simple tasks and in this case, I'd see myself catching something on fire, breaking my water heater, or shocking the **** out of myself.

    At some point I'll probably have an electrician take a look at it and see if there is a more "code-friendly" workaround...such as maybe connecting the water heater into a normal outlet where I could plug it into the generator.
    If you open the breaker first, you cannot get shocked or electrocuted, period. Its no different than plugging in an extension cord really, or re-wiring a floor lamp. Electrical breakers are there to prevent over current draws, or fires. I worked around high voltage lines and equipment (as high as 13,800 volt) for 25 year and have a sound basis and knowledge of electricity and wiring. But I respect that you do feel it exceeds your skills, and that is to be respected.
     

    shrxfn

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    I have PEX in my current house. Pex doesn't last as long as copper piping. The driver (or move to) for pex is BC it's cheaper than copper piping, bottom line. And most of the connections are brass or hard plastic so yes while the pex line itself may endure freezing somewhat better, the connectors will not. All copper piping in any residential home is a much better system than pex, imo.
    Pex came from trailers B4 residential application. Much cheaper than copper, easier to install, 2/3 the lifespan.

    PEX vs copper
    Actually, PEX started in Europe and has been over there for like 40 or 50 years so it has been field tested.

    Also Austin, If you do like I did and have a transfer box and plug at the meter for a generator you can power your house with a generator and use your internal breaker box to control what gets power. I thinnk I did a write up on how I did this in some other thread. I just fire up the gennie, switch the transfer box to cutoff power line and use plug for gennie, turn off all but marked breakers which is pretty much everything but AC units and oven, and then hook up the cord from my gennie to the plug. I can use all outlets in my house like normal and my gas stove top and tankless heater.
     

    AustinBR

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    Actually, PEX started in Europe and has been over there for like 40 or 50 years so it has been field tested.

    Also Austin, If you do like I did and have a transfer box and plug at the meter for a generator you can power your house with a generator and use your internal breaker box to control what gets power. I thinnk I did a write up on how I did this in some other thread. I just fire up the gennie, switch the transfer box to cutoff power line and use plug for gennie, turn off all but marked breakers which is pretty much everything but AC units and oven, and then hook up the cord from my gennie to the plug. I can use all outlets in my house like normal and my gas stove top and tankless heater.
    I've considered a transfer switch, but I live in a brand new house in a brand new neighborhood with a brand new power grid feeding it entirely from the substation. I only have one of the little red honda generators that wouldn't power much. If I went the transfer switch route I'd probably just buy a Generac.
     

    John_

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    Actually, PEX started in Europe and has been over there for like 40 or 50 years so it has been field tested.
    So why in your opinion the switch in the US residential construction from all copper piping to PEX in the last 25 years?
    What motivated the switch to PEX?

    Also post a link to any on line article, reference, or document that states PEX service life is the same as copper piping.
     

    SVT Bansheeman

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    Do you remember how you did this? My tankless heater is seemingly wired directly into the breaker box and is not plugged into any outlet that I can see.
    I think I misunderstood you but here I go.

    My hot water heater is tankless. It runs on natural gas. For use with generator power only, all we did was put the breaker on that supplies power to the tankless hot water heater and it worked as normal. Of course our main breaker was off so we dont back feed.

    As for my tankless heater, it's on an outside wall on my home so hopefully it gets heat from the house.
     

    Magdump

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    Wrapping the gap on houses off the ground is absolutely a great idea. Even a thin sheet of plastic can make the difference in busted pipes. I helped an in law move and remodel an old ‘40’s home years ago and he had a problem the first freeze. Since I had brought up the subject of closing the underside when we move the house, he called on me to help. All we did was the same vinyl siding he used on the house to make a skirting. I also properly insulated the pipes underneath. He’s survived many harder freezes since with no frozen pipes.
     

    davidd

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    Wrapping the gap on houses off the ground is absolutely a great idea. Even a thin sheet of plastic can make the difference in busted pipes. I helped an in law move and remodel an old ‘40’s home years ago and he had a problem the first freeze. Since I had brought up the subject of closing the underside when we move the house, he called on me to help. All we did was the same vinyl siding he used on the house to make a skirting. I also properly insulated the pipes underneath. He’s survived many harder freezes since with no frozen pipes.
    Moving air is like moving water - a 'force multiplier' with regard to rapidly adding or removing heat from a situation. My experience was with my grandfather's '40s era home that was raised. Skirting that house ended his issues with frozen pipes. If you can keep the air still, in most instances, heat from inside the house will radiate around enough to keep things from getting out of hand with regard to the pipes. At least down south.
     

    shrxfn

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    So why in your opinion the switch in the US residential construction from all copper piping to PEX in the last 25 years?
    What motivated the switch to PEX?

    Also post a link to any on line article, reference, or document that states PEX service life is the same as copper piping.
    I never said the service life is the same but copper is not a lifelong thing either if you have certain water conditions is can cause the copper pipe to corrode fairly quickly but PEX does have a long service life of around 50 years Plus if need be you could probably redo your home yourself. I just bought some PEX pipe to run water to my workshop and it cost me like $200 for 300ft of PEX bet you can't get that pricing for copper.

    I thoguht I had read in one response that PEX was brought about because of mobile homes and was just tyring to say it has been used in Europe for a long time before it really became big here.

    I had my house done with PEX and the only issue I have had so far was that the plumber used a galvanized fitting for the main house connector and it corroded and had to be replaced like 8 years in but I switched it to brass and have had no more issues. I actually had to dig up the main line to put a valve in for the workshop and the brass still looks like new.
     
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