Bolting a safe in a garage.

[oldsman350]

I'm thinking about putting my safe in my garage due to storage issues in my closet. Has anyone ever places their safe in a garage? How is the humidity? Any recommendations on what bolts to use on a post tension slab? I hate the thought of drilling through my new ceramic wood tile, so putting in the garage is my only option.

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[pyreaux]

Can't speak to post tension, but as far as humidity, put dryers in it and put some type of spacer underneath to allow airflow. Several dealers and manufacturers have this recommendation. This is all assuming you have a safe that's well sealed

 

[oppsImissed]

You should be able to tell where the cables run through slab by looking for the patches in the concrete outside the garage. So just locate them and avoid them. I had a electric dehumidifier in my sage in the garage and still got surface rust.

 

[cajun 22]

Bolt it to the wall, into the studs behind the safe, instead of the floor.

 

[3fifty7]

Is your garage climate controlled?


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[Nail Gun]

As said, a Golden Rod or similar dryer works well. I'd also suggest placing the safe on top of a couple 2x4's laying on the side. It can prevent the bottom of the safe from rusting. Once you locate the cables you may want to use a threaded concrete anchor so you can remove the anchor without having to cut it. http://www.strongtie.com/mechanicalanchors_mechanicalanchoringproducts/thd_anchor/p/titen-hd

 

[DAVE_M]

Bolt it to the wall, into the studs behind the safe, instead of the floor.

Not all safes can do this.

 

[CHW2021]

You can locate the slab tendons by looking for the ends at the edge of the slab, not too hard. Where are you located? What is the elevation of the garage slab for flooding and how close to the door is the location? You want to stay away from doors because the hot or cold exterior can cause condensation on or in the safe.
As far as anchoring, make sure the safe has a hole to accept an anchor and find the diameter, locate utilities such as water, sewer and electric.....you don't want surprises, do you?
I would suggest placing the safe on the floor to give it a more solid attachment to the anchor point; place on pavers or other solid base if you want to elevate.
My .02.

 

[Sulzer]

I would use wedge anchors:

 

[whitsend]

Bolt it to the wall, into the studs behind the safe, instead of the floor.

Not all safes can do this.

Why not?

Just drill holes in the back of the safe that line up with studs in the wall.

 

[DAVE_M]

Why not?

Just drill holes in the back of the safe that line up with studs in the wall.

I'm pretty sure drilling holes in the back of the safe will void any warranty, and I happen to like the fact that if my house is ever burglarized or catches fire, that my contents will be safe and I can receive a new safe at no cost to me. Not to mention that drilling holes and not being careful may alter the "fire-rating" of your safe, especially if it's a sealed safe.

 

[shotgunjim]

I would say that putting a safe in a non climate controlled garage that rust is a bigger problem than thieves packing it off. A friend went thru this with some nice guns. Wal mart sells a battery op stick on temp and humidity indicator that may help keep you safe. Good luck. jim

 

[JBP55]

I would use wedge anchors:

This.

 

[DAVE_M]

Go get some all thread and this:

 

[Whitebread]

I'm pretty sure drilling holes in the back of the safe will void any warranty, and I happen to like the fact that if my house is ever burglarized or catches fire, that my contents will be safe and I can receive a new safe at no cost to me. Not to mention that drilling holes and not being careful may alter the "fire-rating" of your safe, especially if it's a sealed safe.

Yep thats what Mike Ward people told me. Not sure I would even be interested in trying to drill those holes even in the back of one. I remember in college I worked in a resturant and a bunch of thugs decided to pull a "smash and grab" after the place was closed night. The ripped the front doors off with a truck then proceeded to try to jurk out the safe from the back office with a rope and a truck. Long story-short they damaged the safe and got nothing. And it took a team of smiths too weeks, two drill motors and a lot of expensive bits to get back in it.

Just for the sake of asking who makes one that bolts to walls. I really like liberty safes but bolting one to the foundation through my newly finished floors realy makes my skin crawl.

 

[DAVE_M]

Yep thats what Mike Ward people told me. Not sure I would even be interested in trying to drill those holes even in the back of one. I remember in college I worked in a resturant and a bunch of thugs decided to pull a "smash and grab" after the place was closed night. The ripped the front doors off with a truck then proceeded to try to jurk out the safe from the back office with a rope and a truck. Long story-short they damaged the safe and got nothing. And it took a team of smiths too weeks, two drill motors and a lot of expensive bits to get back in it.

Just for the sake of asking who makes one that bolts to walls. I really like liberty safes but bolting one to the foundation through my newly finished floors realy makes my skin crawl.

I look at a safe as a permanent addition to any home. If I ever sell my house, I'll offer the safe to the new home buyers as a cash sale, only to buy a bigger safe for the new house.

Flooring is easy to replace. Thousands of dollars in firearms and whatever other valuables are not.

 

[Whitebread]

I look at a safe as a permanent addition to any home. If I ever sell my house, I'll offer the safe to the new home buyers as a cash sale, only to buy a bigger safe for the new house.

Flooring is easy to replace. Thousands of dollars in firearms and whatever other valuables are not.

All good points. But tell my knees that about the flooring. Lol. I would definately say a good safe is not something I care to move more than once.

 

[lsufan1971]

Why not?

Just drill holes in the back of the safe that line up with studs in the wall.

That wouldn't be very smart for obvious reasons.

 

[oldsman350]

The section where I wanted to put my safe is a section of slab that us about 5 inches raised even with the rest of my house. As far as water and flooding I received about a 1/2 foot in my garage and 5 inches of water in my house in March. Luckily nothing was flooded to bad. I have a Winchester safe with the 4 bolt holes in the bottom doesn't have holes for the back. I'll have to pick up some wedge anchors. I have a big dehumidfier I bought after the march flood that I could run 24/7 but if I can get a rod to control moisture that would be better.

 

[John_]

The reason I tell you this is because if ur thinking of securing it to the floor for security reasons, it will be pretty easy to get it free. Two guys trying to rock it with their body weight can get it loose. Weight is the biggest security feature of your safe. That and a good home alarm.
I don't even bother bolting it down anymore. Once mine has some weight in it from items and settles over time, its fairly stable, even on carpet.
For security and stability, bolting to to the wall studs would accomplish much much more. Of course this would take more effort for sure as i have never seen a gun safe "drilled" for wall attachment from the factory. Maybe those sheet metal cabinet type "security cabinets".
When I purchased mine from the manufacturer 25 years ago, they said it was constructed of hard plate. And i believe em. I tried to drill the back to run a power wire for a dehumidifier, and a small light. Yeah, good luck. It laughed at my drill and bit. This was back when I attached it to the slab. And that was with a high quality 1/8" bit. Putting a weak center punch mark took great effort, and a freakin maul.