Just picked up a Marlin 1895 45-70 SBL, and have a few issues. (looking for help)

[XyX]

Hey everyone,

I just picked up a Marlin 1895 45-70 SBL, and i found a few issues with it when i got home. Contacted Marlin, and I setup a repair order. Before i send it out, I wanted to dig a bit deeper into the rifle to make sure there isn't anything else wrong with it. Thing is, I'm not too familiar with this rifle or lever actions really. Would anyone locally be able to help me identify any other issues the rifle may have before I send it back for repairs. The customer service rep told me that i should let them know about everything when sending it in so i dont have to send it in again for other things I may find.

Thanks for any help on this

Also a few pictures of the current defects I found:

The stock has a bit of a weakspot where the wood is showing through the finish, and also it seems as though the rail was improperly installed.

 

[dk.easterly]

Is this a new production Marlin?

 

[John_]

I cannot tell which end is the muzzle end for sure in ur pics but as far as the rail mounting, your scope and rail will always want to move towards the muzzle from recoil. Its a real problem in moderate and heavy recoiling, lighter weight rifles. So when you install the rail and tighten the screws, you want rail pushed fully towards the muzzle of firearm, if there is any play or tolerance in the screw holes. And there always is to some minor degree. This is what appears they did when installing the rail in the pics, best i can tell from these pics.

You might want to pull one of the rail screws now and see if they loctited them from the factory. Me, I'd re-do all of them now myself using medium strength loctite. I use Loctite 222. If your rail is not mounted properly, it's a really bad foundation to start on, mounting your scope, accuracy after repeated rounds discharged.

An inch pound torque driver is best for installing rail mount screws and scope ring screws, especially if you don't do this often and don't have a feel for 15-25 inch pounds. Or maybe have a local gunsmith do rail/scope install if your not comfortable with it and don't want to spend $60-80 for a decent inch pound torque wrench/tool for a one time thing.

If you do mount a scope and rings, I'd lightly scuff the ring inner contact area, upper and lower with 1000 grit sandpaper, then clean the rings seating area with laquer thinner or acetone damped on a clean rag and the scope contact area, and apply clear GE 100% silicone very lightly with ur finger, then attach ring tops and screws. The idea here is a light film between rings and scope body. VERY LIGHT film is the words here. If you do it right, a tiny bit will ooze from rings after torquing screws. We're not installing a water pump gasket here, just a very light thin film.

Let it dry for 24 hours and ur good to go shooting.

I owned a couple 50 Beowulf AR 15 rifles so i know what it takes to keep the scope properly mounted from trial and error. Good luck with it, very nice rifle BTW.

Oh and I'll add when ur going to the range to sight in ur scope, ie shoot 10-30 rounds or more in a session, I highly recommend a slip on Limbsaver recoil pad. Worth its weight in gold imo.

Link to Limbsaver recoil pad: https://www.amazon.com/LimbSaver-Slip-On-Recoil-Pad/dp/B01IJUPLTC

 

[XyX]

Is this a new production Marlin?

I just picked it up the other day, but I dont know how to decipher if its a new production or not.

I cannot tell which end is the muzzle end for sure in ur pics but as far as the rail mounting, your scope and rail will always want to move towards the muzzle from recoil. Its a real problem in moderate and heavy recoiling, lighter weight rifles. So when you install the rail and tighten the screws, you want rail pushed fully towards the muzzle of firearm, if there is any play or tolerance in the screw holes. And there always is to some minor degree. This is what appears they did when installing the rail in the pics, best i can tell from these pics.

You might want to pull one of the rail screws now and see if they loctited them from the factory. Me, I'd re-do all of them now myself using medium strength loctite. I use Loctite 222. If your rail is not mounted properly, it's a really bad foundation to start on, mounting your scope, accuracy after repeated rounds discharged.

An inch pound torque driver is best for installing rail mount screws and scope ring screws, especially if you don't do this often and don't have a feel for 15-25 inch pounds. Or maybe have a local gunsmith do rail/scope install if your not comfortable with it and don't want to spend $60-80 for a decent inch pound torque wrench/tool for a one time thing.

If you do mount a scope and rings, I'd lightly scuff the ring inner contact area, upper and lower with 1000 grit sandpaper, then clean the rings seating area with laquer thinner or acetone damped on a clean rag and the scope contact area, and apply clear GE 100% silicone very lightly with ur finger, then attach ring tops and screws. The idea here is a light film between rings and scope body. VERY LIGHT film is the words here. If you do it right, a tiny bit will ooze from rings after torquing screws. We're not installing a water pump gasket here, just a very light thin film.

Let it dry for 24 hours and ur good to go shooting.

I owned a couple 50 Beowulf AR 15 rifles so i know what it takes to keep the scope properly mounted from trial and error. Good luck with it, very nice rifle BTW.

Oh and I'll add when ur going to the range to sight in ur scope, ie shoot 10-30 rounds or more in a session, I highly recommend a slip on Limbsaver recoil pad. Worth its weight in gold imo.

Link to Limbsaver recoil pad: https://www.amazon.com/LimbSaver-Slip-On-Recoil-Pad/dp/B01IJUPLTC

I appreciate the info, I'm more looking for help on the entire gun to see if there are any additional areas I need to point out to Marlin for repair.

 

[sandman7925]

I just picked it up the other day, but I dont know how to decipher if its a new production or not.



I appreciate the info, I'm more looking for help on the entire gun to see if there are any additional areas I need to point out to Marlin for repair.

If the proof mark on the barrel next to the receiver is "REP" then it is a newer Remington made rifle. Cycle some rounds through it is the best advise I can give and see how it behaves. Shoot it too before sending it off. Good luck, most Marlin fans have sworn a solemn oath to never buy a Remington made Marlin. If all is wrong with it is the blemish consider yourself lucky.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[hunter5567]

Look up Remington date codes also. There should be another stamp on the barrel with letters which denote the month a year the rifle was made.

 

[BillnLA]

XyX

Sent you a private message with some information in it. Good luck with your rifle.