Oil in the wood

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  • sgt z

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    Mar 21, 2008
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    I have been working on a 101-year-old Remington Model 11. I am trying to get the wood less oily before I seal it. Tried these things.
    Washed it in the parts washer something like varsol.
    Wiped it down with acetone.
    Painted with a flour paste and let it dry.
    Sprayed with brake cleaner then applied flour paste and dried.
    Washed in Murphy's oil soap then Buried in cat litter in the sun for a day or two, brought it inside, stayed buried a few more days.
    Washed in Murphy's and set in sun. Still bleeding oil.
    Should I keep going or quit and seal it? Thanks
     

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    jpso211

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    May 21, 2018
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    Hammond, LA. area
    If I were u, I'd contact the best Antique furniture refinisher. Make very sure he is a professional with references... Not a Shadetree!
    If anyone can help u, it would be one of them. That knows his stuff...
    I spent 30yrs. in the Antiques & Collectibles business... My Better Half, she owned a brick & mortar Antique Store that I helped her run... Unfortunately the guy we used passed away many years ago... And we have been away from the business quite a while, so u will have to search one out for yourself... sorry but it's been too long for me to know anyone I could recommend...
    Call a High End Antique Store or High End Auction House...
    That's your best bet...
    Good Luck!
     

    john17427

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    Oct 23, 2010
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    Good advice on talking to a furniture refinisher. They do have some tricks. In the meantime, something else to try is wrapping it in paper towels, put it in a black garbage bag and set it out on sunny days a few times.
     

    Scrape

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    Do you know the moisture content of the wood? Some projects I’ve had required me to kiln dry and other times use dehumidifer to get moisture out . A kiln at certain temps will “set the pitch” in pine and cypress wood.
    Good info above to look into the issue with a refinisher.
     

    Magdump

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    Dec 31, 2013
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    Persistent low heat. Add to that whatever way to trap it upon exit.
    Car interior during these hot days might do it. Lowest setting on an oven is usually 200 degrees.
    I’m wondering if it will bleed through a tung oil finish.
     

    Akajun

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    Apr 10, 2008
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    Brusly
    we fought this battle with milsurps soaked in packing oil and cosmoline. Basically all your doing with physical means is removing the top layer of oil, but its deep in the wood from years of capilary action.
    Basically you need heat, gravity, and time to get it out. Simply putting it on rack in a black trash bag for weeks at a time works, take it out every few days and clean it with degreaser and change the position. I had a metal tank I fabbed up with a light bulb that hung the stocks lengthways that would cook out the oil in a few days. Even putting it in your kitchen oven on the low setting works, just dont let your wife see.
     

    340six

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    Apr 12, 2012
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    we fought this battle with milsurps soaked in packing oil and cosmoline. Basically all your doing with physical means is removing the top layer of oil, but its deep in the wood from years of capilary action.
    Basically you need heat, gravity, and time to get it out. Simply putting it on rack in a black trash bag for weeks at a time works, take it out every few days and clean it with degreaser and change the position. I had a metal tank I fabbed up with a light bulb that hung the stocks lengthways that would cook out the oil in a few days. Even putting it in your kitchen oven on the low setting works, just dont let your wife see.
    That's what guy's had best luck with, on Old CMP forum.
    Black bags in car, racks etc. Many many costs of USGI oiled stocks took forever to get out.
    Was a, long drawn out process
    Some used Dish Washer on bad sticks as,last resort.
    Also guy's had good luck when they steamed out dents.
    At that point you are last resort starting from scratch.
    Might still be threads on stock refinish there.
     

    Abby Normal

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    Just stinking out of da box but if all else fails would a small vacuum camber work at pulling out the Earl? I never heard of it tried before but just a thought.
     

    SouthernUnderGod

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    Nov 28, 2016
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    I saw a Larry Potterfield (MidwayUSA) video where he submerged a stock in Acetone for a day+ to remove oil stains. I think it would take more than a gallon to cover the stock, and you would need a proper container. It might fit in a large rectangular Pyrex chafing dish. I also think MEK would work.
     

    sgt z

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    Thanks for all the replies. I wrapped the wood in paper towels put it in a garbage bag for the past few days. I'm really ready to move on with this project and not put any more time or money into it. I may put in the oven this evening.
     

    gwpercle

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    Feb 20, 2013
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    Heat , Gravity , Time ...
    Paper Towel wrapping - Black Garbage Bag and the Sun
    will be your best bet ... maybe a hair dryer / heat gun to speed it up . I wouldn't do the Oven thing ... too easy to overheat the stock ... you are starting to get there ...
    when the paper towels no longer show oil ... call it done and refinish the stock . I would use an oil based finish like Tru-Oil . The stock is looking good ...
    I have a Remington model 11 (1929) with a dark stock also ...
    nice walnut under all that old oil ... try and save the original stock ... they just don't use nice old walnut like that any more ... saving that original stock will be well worth the trouble ... don't give up on it just yet !
    Good Luck ,
    Gary
     

    jdindadell

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    Feb 14, 2010
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    I have done this with toilet paper (thinner, more absorbent and it can get closer/tighter to the stock) and then wrapped in a back bag on the dash of a closed car in the summer. wrap the toilet paper a few layers for better absorption.

    I have also used a heat gun and paper-towels, just keep heating it on low and soaking up the oil and grease as it comes out.

    And I would stick with an oil finish, do not try to seal it up with any sort of polyurethane or varnish.
     

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