Reoccurring Rust Problem.

[BenCarp27]

I have a S&W stainless revolver that had gone under during Katrina. I broke her down completely and cleaned it up after salvaging it, and other than some discoloration, you couldn't tell she was a flood victim. The problem is, even after scrubbing and removing the rust and grime, and oiling her down, she constantly "re"-rusts. I've taken her down completely and soaked each piece and spring in an ultra-sonic cleaner, hand scrubbed, and greased/oiled everything as needed. There is no active corrosion or pitting on anything, just constantly reoccurring surface rust. I have been having to completely break her down to clean and oil her twice a month, and she does nothing but sit in the safe with a dehumidifier. Am I missing something? Have I overlooked any steps? Everything I have read online says to do what I've already done.

 

[troy_mclure]

try contacting s&w for refinishing. they have been doing shoddy work lately but you may get lucky.

 

[BenCarp27]

Thanks, I'll have to call them and look into it.

 

[dwr461]

OK I have something for you to try. Do you know how they put magnesium anodes on ships to prevent corrosion to the steel? I have a similar idea that I've used with good effect. On spots where I get rust I put a small spot of oil on it over night and then the next day scape off the rust with a all copper penny. It works well on blued firearms in particular. Since that removes the spot without harming the blueing around the spot. I didn't come up with that idea. A old retired gunsmith told me that trick. Here's the best part of it you see no matter how much you think you got all the rust (oxidization) there's still some in the microscopic irregularities of the steel that you can't get to. A microscopic amount of copper is left behind in the steel. We believe that this copper is acting like an anode to prevent further oxidization at that spot. I would try (If for no other reason than curiosity) to scrub a small portion of the steel (stainless right?) with a copper bristled brush to clean the rust off. Of course I would first soak the area with 3 in 1 light machine oil over night. Then after cleaning I'd rub oil into that area again. If this area seems to have less rust form that I'd repeat. My theory here is that you have in those microscopic areas of the steel some substance that's causing the oxidation.

If that doesn't work I'd just have the gun bead blasted to remove that microscope top layer of steel see if that does the trick.

Dave

 

[geauxshootin]

Try "LubriSilk" Gun Oil
It will lift the rust and form a bond on the surface. It is a Boron based oil.

 

[BenCarp27]

I appreciate all the advice so far. The weapon was given to me by a great uncle when I first started with the sheriff's office. Is not an antique by any means, but has great sentimental value. I've been cleaning it regularly, and since there were no signs of heavy corrosion or pitting, I've just kept maintaining it. After spending twenty minutes on my hands and knees trying to find a runaway spring this evening, I've had enough of completely stripping it down each time. Since the stainless parts themselves aren't rusting, do any of you have a ball park for what it would cost to replace the non-stainless innards?

 

[dwr461]

You'd have to bring to a gunsmith that's qualified to build a S&W DA Revolver. That's a bit of a rare breed. They are not GLOCK's and you need to know what you're doing to get everything timed right. Try contacting Lloyd Landry he's the most qualified guy I know of in the area. 225-647-1909.

Dave

 

[Request Dust Off]

Ben,
I have some of the lubrisilk if you want to try it.

 

[pulpsmack]

lp

OK I have something for you to try. Do you know how they put magnesium anodes on ships to prevent corrosion to the steel? I have a similar idea that I've used with good effect. On spots where I get rust I put a small spot of oil on it over night and then the next day scape off the rust with a all copper penny. It works well on blued firearms in particular. Since that removes the spot without harming the blueing around the spot. I didn't come up with that idea. A old retired gunsmith told me that trick. Here's the best part of it you see no matter how much you think you got all the rust (oxidization) there's still some in the microscopic irregularities of the steel that you can't get to. A microscopic amount of copper is left behind in the steel. We believe that this copper is acting like an anode to prevent further oxidization at that spot. I would try (If for no other reason than curiosity) to scrub a small portion of the steel (stainless right?) with a copper bristled brush to clean the rust off. Of course I would first soak the area with 3 in 1 light machine oil over night. Then after cleaning I'd rub oil into that area again. If this area seems to have less rust form that I'd repeat. My theory here is that you have in those microscopic areas of the steel some substance that's causing the oxidation.

If that doesn't work I'd just have the gun bead blasted to remove that microscope top layer of steel see if that does the trick.

Dave

wish the penny trick worked. I scrubbed one with CLP and a copper brush (an easier application) rust still xomes.

 

[BenCarp27]

I've got some running to do today, so I'll probably stop and pick up some lubrisilk and try that.

 

[dwr461]

wish the penny trick worked. I scrubbed one with CLP and a copper brush (an easier application) rust still xomes.

Hmm, I never actually tried it with a copper brush. Always a penny. You did use a penny made prior to 1982 right? Otherwise you didn't really use copper. It's always worked for me.

http://coins.about.com/od/uscoins/f/copper_to_zinc.htm

Dave