Sig West German P228

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  • dwr461

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    Jan 23, 2009
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    The true expert we had for Sig's has left the forum. I had a thread from about a year ago where he explained the maintenance intervals on that handgun. Unfortunately when he chose to leave he went through and deleted every post he ever made. So even if I give you the link back. It won't be much help. However here's the gist I arrived at:

    So even if the recoil spring fixes the current issue, I should plan on changing the extractor, trigger bar spring, and firing pin spring in the very near future anyway? I think Top Gun Supply as a spring pack that includes everything but the extractor in it.

    So replaced all the springs listed above in my West German P228 last Sept. You'll also need the two roll pins that hold the block into the back of the slide and roll pin punchs.

    Dave
     

    JBP55

    La. CHP Instructor #409
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    The two that left and had all their previous posts removed by someone in BS administration are back on BS.
     

    JBP55

    La. CHP Instructor #409
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    This came from another forum.

    Sig P220
    Recoil Spring - 3,500 rds
    Slide Catch Lever Spring - 5,000 rounds
    Trigger Bar Spring - 5,000 rounds
    Decocking Spring - 5,000 rounds

    Sig P228, 226, 229
    Recoil Spring - 5,000 rds
    Slide Catch Lever Spring - 5,000 rounds
    Trigger Bar Spring - 5,000 rounds
    Decocking Spring - 5,000 rounds

    Unofficial Recommendations
    Sig sells a "rebuild" kit that includes the common springs, grip screws, and firing pin positioning pin, buy those and "one fell swoop" it.
    P220 - I would replace the standard takedown lever every 10,000 rounds or find the "Combat" takedown lever and two-piece firing pin positioning pin every 5,000 rounds
    P228/226 - I would replace the two piece firing pin positioning pin every 5,000 rounds.
     

    dwr461

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    I general buy used police european sig's. So I've had the roll pins out before on all my sig with the block. If you're doing it yourself be sure to buy the Roll Pin Punches don't try to use regular punches. Also the roll pins are of course seamed on one side you have to place the inner roll pin seam 180 degrees off of the outer roll pin. The roll pins should be replaced every time they're removed.

    Whenever I'm taking the roll pins out. I just replace all the springs.

    For parts I've used both Sig Sauer and Top Gun Supply. Of the two I prefer dealing with Top Gun Supply. Plus they generally have NOS springs that are like the one's you'll be replacing. Sig has changed some of the springs a little over the years and general only have the new designs in stock. I'm told they work fine. But I like to use the same kind that came out.

    Dave

    - - - Updated - - -

    Anybody have roll pin punches?

    Harbor Freight some real cheap ones that'll work. And when they break you're not out a lot of money.
     

    dwr461

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    I've always shot Sig's better than GLOCKs. I don't think either one is "better" or "best." I just know that I've owned two GLOCK's and never was happy with my performance with them.

    Dave
     
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    Jun 24, 2009
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    Ergonomics are obviously different for everybody - I love to shoot a SIG range toy from time to time but actually shoot better with my Glocks (which I've never replaced a spring in, yet, and have had no problem with the "roll pins", lol).
    Enjoy your Sig - the P228 is a fine choice.
     

    LSP552

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    Feb 18, 2010
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    This has everything I would do:

    http://www.topgunsupply.com/sig_p228-9mm_parts-kit.html

    The parts kit includes the HD (inner and outer) roll pins. These are critical and MUST be replaced every 5,000 rounds. Top Gun Supply has been my go-to for SIG parts for years with excellent service. If you want to learn more about your SIG, there is an excellent armorer video by Bruce Gray for sale on the grayguns website. Done incorrectly, replacing the HD pins will jack up your firing pin.

    Ken
     

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