Smith & Wesson Model 66
- Thread starter Jman1911
- Start date
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I definitely need a taller front sight….. I’m as low as I can go in the rear as to make it bring the front down. Looking for sights now.
double check that someone did not mess up the elevation screw or change out the sight blade?
SIGHT ADJUSTMENT
WARNING: ENSURE THAT YOUR FIREARM IS
UNLOADED BEFORE ADJUSTING THE SIGHTS. ALWAYS
FOLLOW THE RULES OF SAFE GUN HANDLING.
TO MAKE A SIGHT ADJUSTMENT WITH AN ADJUSTABLE
REAR SIGHT
• To raise the point of impact, raise the rear sight by turning the
elevation screw counterclockwise one or two clicks at a time.
• To lower the point of impact, lower the rear sight by turning
the elevation screw clockwise one or two clicks at a time.
• Move the point of impact to the right by turning the windage
screw clockwise one or two clicks at a time.
• Move the point of impact to the left by turning the windage
screw counterclockwise one or two clicks at a time,
this was from an old S&W board. on how to remove, there are some videos on you tube as well,
To remove the entire sight, turn the elevation screw to raise the rear sight, and take some of the strain off. DO NOT back the screw all the war out.
Remove the screw at the front of the leaf and slide the entire sight backward and off the frame.
When reinstalling the sight, you have to fit the tiny square nut on the bottom into the "T" slot on the frame.
To change out the sight blade:
For tools, you'll need a GOOD, FITTED gunsmith's screwdriver bit. You can buy the right bit from Brownell's.
The right bit is #210-3. Stock number 080-210-330.
DO NOT try to use a S&W rear sight screwdriver since it's not strong enough, or any type of standard screwdriver.
You'll need a staking punch. This can be a center punch with a rounded-off point, or even a nail, and a bench block to use as an anvil. You can simply put some magazine cover paper or shim stock on a vise anvil.
You'll need either a S&W rear sight spanner "wrench" or a pair of jeweler's tweezers.
Buy a rear sight blade kit from Brownell's or S&W.
Sight blades are sold for different barrel lengths of the gun.
You MUST buy the correct blade kit, since these come in different heights for different guns.
Longer barrels take a different height then the same model with a short barrel.
There are also plain black or white outline blades.
The sight kits comes complete with the blade, a new windage screw, and a new windage screw nut.
Here's the actual process of changing out the rear sight blade:
Turn the windage screw COUNTERCLOCKWISE until it stops turning.
Get the screwdriver well seated in the windage screw slot, then forcibly turn it farther until it shears.
The S&W sight windage screw has a weakened area on the shaft to allow the screw to shear.
(NOTE: As a alternative method, use a small drill to drill off the flared windage screw staking in the windage nut.)
Hold the sight over a table and gently bump it until the windage screw head moves out of the sight base just enough that it can be pulled the rest of the way out.
BE CAREFUL, under the windage screw head is a TINY spring and plunger, don't loose them.
Push the windage screw and blade over to the side until you can grip the shaft of the screw and unscrew it from the blade.
Use solvent to degrease and clean the sight base. Dry, then apply a good lube to all parts.
Screw the new windage screw into the new blade.
Slip the tiny windage screw spring and plunger into place in the base, then insert the new windage screw and blade into the base, making sure the spring and plunger are in the right position.
Press the windage screw into the base until it's seated in the base, with the spring and plunger under it.
Hold everything in place until the nut is installed.
Press and hold the windage screw firmly into the base.
Screw the tiny windage screw nut onto the windage screw shaft until it snugs up against the sight base.
BACK IT OFF 1/4 of a turn.
(Use a S&W spanner tool or tweezers to snug the nut down against the base, then back it off).
Place the windage screw head on a brass bench block, then use a punch to gently flair the hollow end of the windage screw shaft down into the nut.
Be careful to keep the nut from turning while riveting the windage screw.
(For a punch use a center punch with the point rounded off, or even a nail with a re-shaped and rounded point)
All that's needed is a good flair on the end of the screw shaft to lock the nut in place.
This doesn't take a lot of hammering.
Test the windage screw to insure the sight has a full range of windage adjustment, and doesn't bind.
SIGHT ADJUSTMENT
WARNING: ENSURE THAT YOUR FIREARM IS
UNLOADED BEFORE ADJUSTING THE SIGHTS. ALWAYS
FOLLOW THE RULES OF SAFE GUN HANDLING.
TO MAKE A SIGHT ADJUSTMENT WITH AN ADJUSTABLE
REAR SIGHT
• To raise the point of impact, raise the rear sight by turning the
elevation screw counterclockwise one or two clicks at a time.
• To lower the point of impact, lower the rear sight by turning
the elevation screw clockwise one or two clicks at a time.
• Move the point of impact to the right by turning the windage
screw clockwise one or two clicks at a time.
• Move the point of impact to the left by turning the windage
screw counterclockwise one or two clicks at a time,
this was from an old S&W board. on how to remove, there are some videos on you tube as well,
To remove the entire sight, turn the elevation screw to raise the rear sight, and take some of the strain off. DO NOT back the screw all the war out.
Remove the screw at the front of the leaf and slide the entire sight backward and off the frame.
When reinstalling the sight, you have to fit the tiny square nut on the bottom into the "T" slot on the frame.
To change out the sight blade:
For tools, you'll need a GOOD, FITTED gunsmith's screwdriver bit. You can buy the right bit from Brownell's.
The right bit is #210-3. Stock number 080-210-330.
DO NOT try to use a S&W rear sight screwdriver since it's not strong enough, or any type of standard screwdriver.
You'll need a staking punch. This can be a center punch with a rounded-off point, or even a nail, and a bench block to use as an anvil. You can simply put some magazine cover paper or shim stock on a vise anvil.
You'll need either a S&W rear sight spanner "wrench" or a pair of jeweler's tweezers.
Buy a rear sight blade kit from Brownell's or S&W.
Sight blades are sold for different barrel lengths of the gun.
You MUST buy the correct blade kit, since these come in different heights for different guns.
Longer barrels take a different height then the same model with a short barrel.
There are also plain black or white outline blades.
The sight kits comes complete with the blade, a new windage screw, and a new windage screw nut.
Here's the actual process of changing out the rear sight blade:
Turn the windage screw COUNTERCLOCKWISE until it stops turning.
Get the screwdriver well seated in the windage screw slot, then forcibly turn it farther until it shears.
The S&W sight windage screw has a weakened area on the shaft to allow the screw to shear.
(NOTE: As a alternative method, use a small drill to drill off the flared windage screw staking in the windage nut.)
Hold the sight over a table and gently bump it until the windage screw head moves out of the sight base just enough that it can be pulled the rest of the way out.
BE CAREFUL, under the windage screw head is a TINY spring and plunger, don't loose them.
Push the windage screw and blade over to the side until you can grip the shaft of the screw and unscrew it from the blade.
Use solvent to degrease and clean the sight base. Dry, then apply a good lube to all parts.
Screw the new windage screw into the new blade.
Slip the tiny windage screw spring and plunger into place in the base, then insert the new windage screw and blade into the base, making sure the spring and plunger are in the right position.
Press the windage screw into the base until it's seated in the base, with the spring and plunger under it.
Hold everything in place until the nut is installed.
Press and hold the windage screw firmly into the base.
Screw the tiny windage screw nut onto the windage screw shaft until it snugs up against the sight base.
BACK IT OFF 1/4 of a turn.
(Use a S&W spanner tool or tweezers to snug the nut down against the base, then back it off).
Place the windage screw head on a brass bench block, then use a punch to gently flair the hollow end of the windage screw shaft down into the nut.
Be careful to keep the nut from turning while riveting the windage screw.
(For a punch use a center punch with the point rounded off, or even a nail with a re-shaped and rounded point)
All that's needed is a good flair on the end of the screw shaft to lock the nut in place.
This doesn't take a lot of hammering.
Test the windage screw to insure the sight has a full range of windage adjustment, and doesn't bind.
I find it strange that your pistol shoots that high (not sure what distance you are shooting). I had a Ruger Security Six that shot 4" left at 15 yards. Come to find out the barrel had somehow been knocked out of alignment. A friend 're-aligned' the barrel and it shot great. I would look at barrel alignment (possible mis-thread) before looking at changing sights
LouisianaJoe
Well-Known Member
I replaced the front sight on my 624 with a fiber optic sight. I bought it from https://dawsonprecision.com/. They have multiple heights .145 to .385. They also have several widths. They also have plain black sights.
I went ahead and order night sights for it as I really think it would be slick! Plus matching set should fix my problem.
Another Bill
Member
Was this revolver bought new?
Since you were changing the rear sight anyway, I thought it might be an option. I have done it myself in the past. Careful filing, then some touch-up blue (if the sight blade is blued like my 66). If it is stainless, then you probably wouldn't be able to tell. Could lower the impact enough without having to change the sights.
Last edited:
falshooter
Well-Known Member
That would lower the impact point as stated
My bad. But on the alignment it's worth looking into. My friend pointed out to me, and you could see it looking at the top of the gun. The barrel was ever-so slightly canted to the left instead of being inline with the top strap. You might look at your gun from both sides to ensure the top strap and barrel look to be parallel. But regardless, I'm sure a gunsmith can get you where you want to be. Good luck. Let us know what you find out and the fix.
Sights will be in this week for it bud.
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