Stupid castle nut !

[Born4spd]

I broke an ar tool trying to get the castle nut off.Everyone sAid that if it wasn't a Lmt it would twist right off. Tips ? I wAs using a cheAp American tactical wrench anyone have any ideas? I'm trying to instAll an asap plate btw.

 

[dmiculek]

If it is a Rock River you are likely out of luck. We could not get our dept issue ones to budge.

 

[Richard in LA]

many of them have the end plate staked to keep the nut from backing off. Check out these pictures on this thread.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=3641816&postcount=1

 

[Born4spd]

Its a bcm lower it is staked.

The fawking stakes wont back out, even dremeled them out and it still wond budge.

Took the pistol grip off when heating it up incase it was asseumbled with loctite and a million fawking parts fall out.

Euguene stoner sucks.
Kalash FTW.

 

[Richard in LA]

Its a bcm lower it is staked.

The fawking stakes wont back out, even dremeled them out and it still wond budge.

Took the pistol grip off when heating it up incase it was asseumbled with loctite and a million fawking parts fall out.

Euguene stoner sucks.
Kalash FTW.

Well, it is doing what it was designed to do............not come off! I have 0 experience with an asap plate, but do you need the end plate still, or no? if not, you could CAREFULLY score the area between the buffer tube and the indentation on the rear of the reciever plate with a cutting wheel until enough material was removed that you can bend up the end plate. after that you should be able to remove the assembly as a whole piece, and discard the rest of the end plate. Dont forget that when you do take that end plate off, there is a detent and spring that will come out, making it 2 million fawking parts that will have fallen out.

 

[Born4spd]

Well, it is doing what it was designed to do............not come off! I have 0 experience with an asap plate, but do you need the end plate still, or no? if not, you could CAREFULLY score the area between the buffer tube and the indentation on the rear of the reciever plate with a cutting wheel until enough material was removed that you can bend up the end plate. after that you should be able to remove the assembly as a whole piece, and discard the rest of the end plate. Dont forget that when you do take that end plate off, there is a detent and spring that will come out, making it 2 million fawking parts that will have fallen out.

haha thanks might do that.

Sorry this thing has me frustrated.

 

[WHEELER]

You will need a good lower reciever block & a good three tooth castle nut removal tool.
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Tapco-Ar-15-M4-Stock-Wrench/dp/B002E6X44C[/ame]

 

[petelanca]

You can take a flat file and create a back cut on the wrench teeth. This negative angle will pull the wrench to the nut vs pushing it away.

 

[Born4spd]

You can take a flat file and create a back cut on the wrench teeth. This negative angle will pull the wrench to the nut vs pushing it away.

The wrench is in two pieces.

The spanner end doubled over.

Piece of ****: http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=XARTool&groupid=55

 

[Akajun]

Get the DPMS combo tool, a good lower block or vice jaws, some kroil, and a heat gun. Put kroil on it for a few days every day, then heat it with the heat gun till the kroil bubbles, then go at it.

 

[pmac81]

I didnt even try to do it my self with my RRA because 1) I didnt have the time and patience, and 2) I really didnt have the patience, I bought the ASAP plate from hebert's since its close to my house and their gunsmith installed it for me, though I did hear him cussing my rifle out a few times so I would assume he was having somewhat of the same problem

 

[Born4spd]

I may just go by jim's tomorrow and see if they will do it.

 

[pmac81]

Jims will, not sure how much they will charge but I know they will, I would have gone there but they were closed and I didnt have to pay to have it put on at hebert's since I purchased the plate from them

 

[noob]

like everyone said, get a good lower receiver block and a vice and it'll be a lot easier b/c you'll be able to get more torque with the lower receiver very stable. if it's staked, i usually remove the staking w/ a punch. after that, you can get on the castle nut. there's no reason to really add loctite or anything to the castle nut. i tapped the rear detent spring hole, so i'm not worried about the spring coming out and i stake the castle nut after installation. i don't think it's going anywhere

 

[Born4spd]

Jims will change it for less than what i paid for the tool.

Damn.

 

[Born4spd]

They fixed me right up, while i was waiting i looked at those micro aimpoints....

Guess since they were so quick with the fix ill buy my aimpoint from them.

 

[Ben Segrest]

I'd have just used a punch.

 

[rockmup]

Should have busted out the victor wrench !