whats the best steel for a pocket knife?
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Because pockets are close to your body. Your body gives off and collects moisture. Moisture corrodes stainless less than high carbon steel.
Fixed blades that are kept in sheaths are usually easier to keep clean since you're not touching the blade as much, thus the high carbon steels are more suited for the work they do. Still, when it comes to picking out the right knife it will have everything to do with what it's intended usage will be.
Fixed blades that are kept in sheaths are usually easier to keep clean since you're not touching the blade as much, thus the high carbon steels are more suited for the work they do. Still, when it comes to picking out the right knife it will have everything to do with what it's intended usage will be.
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Someone put it this way:
Stainless is for a blade to stay sharp when it doesn't get used.
Steel is for a blade to stay sharp while it is being used.
All the grades of steel get overwhelming in a hurry. There are some knife & knifemaking forums with in depth discussions.
Stainless is for a blade to stay sharp when it doesn't get used.
Steel is for a blade to stay sharp while it is being used.
All the grades of steel get overwhelming in a hurry. There are some knife & knifemaking forums with in depth discussions.
You can read a lot about more exotic grades of steel, 30SV, D2, etc. But really, for a pocketknife that opens boxes, cuts cord, etc. regular 440A stainless that is in most low and medium priced pocketknives gets sharp enough and holds its edge sufficiently for most people. Buck 420HC is Ok, too. And carbon steel like 1095 in the older Cases and Schrades gets mighty sharp and is easy to resharpen.
There is no one "best" steel, everything is a compromise. A lot of these new stainless steels are so much better than "stainless" is when it first came out. It got a deservedly bad reputation then and it still clings.
I have a bunch of Kershaw knives with the Speed Safe opening feature, love that easy opening, they have stainless steel, one marked 8Cr13MoV and another that's marked 14C28N and I'm impressed with them. Easy to sharpen, long edge holding and they take a good razor sharp edge. Check out the steels Kershaw uses, I really like them for pocket knives. I'm sure there are others,these are the two I am using.
The 440 stainless steels are the older ones, I think these new and improved ones just might be the ticket!
Gary
I have a bunch of Kershaw knives with the Speed Safe opening feature, love that easy opening, they have stainless steel, one marked 8Cr13MoV and another that's marked 14C28N and I'm impressed with them. Easy to sharpen, long edge holding and they take a good razor sharp edge. Check out the steels Kershaw uses, I really like them for pocket knives. I'm sure there are others,these are the two I am using.
The 440 stainless steels are the older ones, I think these new and improved ones just might be the ticket!
Gary
My EDC is a 440C Benchmade.
I have a few nice knives with some very nice steel, S30V, M2HS, D2, ATS-34, 154CM, etc.
In my experience once you get past 440c (assuming it is heat treated properly etc, not all are equal) the main difference is in your wallet.
If you touch up your blade with a sharpmaker or similar, a "real" sharpening won't be necessary more than annually with regular use.
I have a few nice knives with some very nice steel, S30V, M2HS, D2, ATS-34, 154CM, etc.
In my experience once you get past 440c (assuming it is heat treated properly etc, not all are equal) the main difference is in your wallet.
If you touch up your blade with a sharpmaker or similar, a "real" sharpening won't be necessary more than annually with regular use.
This question cannot be answered easily. Take what you are doing with a knife then pick a steel (or stainless steel) best suited. Who heat treated and the quality of that heat treat matters as much as what you are doing. A carbon steel knife in salt water use? No way.
Some of my favorites. 52100 and 1095 for carbon. Also cases CV. But I tend to not care for carbon like I should
Stainless; spydercos vg10 is decent. Benchmades 154cm is good. I hear their m390 is but that's going to be a bear to sharpen. Reeves s35vn is very nice, he doesn't over harden it so it is easy to get very sharp, but requires a little attention to keep it there. My absolute favorite of all is shirogorovs elmax. It's incredible. I've had microtechs elmax and zt' and shiros heat treat just blows them away. It's easy to get very very sharp (push cutting phone book paper) and holds that edge very well.
Some of my favorites. 52100 and 1095 for carbon. Also cases CV. But I tend to not care for carbon like I should
Stainless; spydercos vg10 is decent. Benchmades 154cm is good. I hear their m390 is but that's going to be a bear to sharpen. Reeves s35vn is very nice, he doesn't over harden it so it is easy to get very sharp, but requires a little attention to keep it there. My absolute favorite of all is shirogorovs elmax. It's incredible. I've had microtechs elmax and zt' and shiros heat treat just blows them away. It's easy to get very very sharp (push cutting phone book paper) and holds that edge very well.
Do is a good compromise I carry a Benchmade Mini griptillan. Cabelas has exclusively in D2. Very tough and will get sharp. No rust problems and I sweat a lot in attics. I also use D2 for a skinning knife. Sav gets a hyper sharp edge. ZDP 189 is best but a little expensive for most folks.
Norsewolf
Norsewolf
Might be an old thread, but a good topic.
There is no best steel. Different steels just answer different questions.
I like high carbons just for nostalgia. I like the old school patina that develops. It sharpens well but needs maintenance.
I like the simpler stainless steels that are easy to sharpen in the field. Some of the newer super steel blades about need super powered sharpeners and I'm not a big fan. They hold an edge, but it's a lot of work to get an edge.
Sent via the Pony Express!
There is no best steel. Different steels just answer different questions.
I like high carbons just for nostalgia. I like the old school patina that develops. It sharpens well but needs maintenance.
I like the simpler stainless steels that are easy to sharpen in the field. Some of the newer super steel blades about need super powered sharpeners and I'm not a big fan. They hold an edge, but it's a lot of work to get an edge.
Sent via the Pony Express!
Gus is right. 100%. His last line is one reason I like reeves s35vn. They don't take it up to super hard and people complain about that. But it comes back to super sharp so easily and doesn't roll, chip or crack.
Steel is 10% alloy and 90% heat treat. Ok maybe not that drastic but a cheap steel with a good treat is far better than a super steel with a bad heat treat.
