First time glock has let me down.

[alpinehyperlite]

Went up for my annual qualifications shot the duty g22 (roughly 1500 rds fired through it), no problems. Shot the 1st back up, the ruger LCP (300 rds through it), no problems. Step up with the ole trust g27 (2,000ish)

"shooters on the line, fire!"

Glock went boom boom boom click.

Then the slide wouldn't seat correctly. Broke it down, and the slide spring was all wonkey.

Top: broken
Bottom: new

 

[Booseman]

Went up for my annual qualifications shot the duty g22 (roughly 1500 rds fired through it), no problems. Shot the 1st back up, the ruger LCP (300 rds through it), no problems. Step up with the ole trust g27 (2,000ish)

"shooters on the line, fire!"

Glock went boom boom boom click.

Then the slide wouldn't seat correctly. Broke it down, and the slide spring was all wonkey.

Top: broken
Bottom: new

Maybe it was good that was your second back-up piece? But in all seriousness, $hit happens and not everything can last forever. Now that you have fixed and or replaced that part you probably wont have an issue for years.

Where are the pics of the target??

 

[alpinehyperlite]

After so few rounds, and glocks known "reliability" it kinda came as a shock. If I had needed this in a fire fight, I'd have been screwed. It's my primary off duty carry piece.

 

[Booseman]

Let me just ask one question, how long have you had the 27?

You are completely correct and I understand. When you have something that your life and possibly others depends on you need to know that it will work every-time you go to use it.

With that said, springs are a normal wear and tear type item. In any firearm that I have I usually do a complete refit of all springs every so often. Take an AR for example, every year I replace all the parts on the bolt dealing with the ejection of a cartridge. About every 3-5k rounds I replace the firing pin. 5-7k rounds the bolt itself.

I unfortunately I can not see the pic on the network I have in Afghan.

 

[alpinehyperlite]

It's a pic of the slide spring. If you look where the large spring meets the small spring, the little lip that catches the large spring, it has somehow straightened/flattened out to let the large spring slide over the small spring.

Ive had it for 3 years or so, but haven't put too many rds through it.

 

[762NATO]

It may have been a bad part. Seems to me, aside from maybe zealous dry-firing, why that part failed.

 

[alpinehyperlite]

Only time the gun is dry fired, is once a month to take it down for cleaning. So in it's life time, id say dry fired under 50 times. But I don't see how dry firing could affect this part.

 

[Booseman]

Like I said I cant see pictures over here except before 8am and after 8pm. If I saw the picture I might be able to help. The best person I could say to reach out to is Speedracer, he might have some insight to your issue.

Three years is not that long for a main spring and it should not have had an issue, I would think. So what happened is that it did not eject the fired round? Or did it not go into full battery? I am guessing "boom, boom, boom, click" that means it ejected the final boom and went click on the new round, correct? If that is the case then it didn't go into battery all the way and the firing pin did not make contact with the round.

Next question is are you using +p rounds in the 27? If you are that will cause more wear and tear on the recoil springs because they are more violent. Lots of +P rated loads will fatigue the spring a bit faster as it has to react faster and more violently thus heating and tiring the spring wire. The more cycles and the more violently the cycles the faster a spring fatigues.

Remember, the recoil of a Glock is managed by means of the weight of the slide. The stock weight spring is adequate for 99% of all uses. You MAY wish to purchase a set or two that are 1 pound heavier spring rate if you run +P rated social use loads. It does little to manage recoil but it simply starts the spring out at a higher rate and thus will remain "in spec" longer....with lots of warm ammo.

I do the following to test the recoil spring tension:

1. Unload pistol and ensure that it is empty.
2. Point the pistol at the ceiling
3. Pull the trigger and hold the trigger back (so the striker release don't catch the bottom of the striker and add tension to the recoil spring).
4. Pull the slide all the way back.
5. Hold onto the slide and slowly ease it forward.
6. If the slide goes into battery, your recoil spring is good.
7. If the slide does not go into battery, replace your recoil spring.

 

[alpinehyperlite]

I know what happened to it, the lip holding the spring in place failed. I just wanted to post up the glocks malfunction/break. Fact is it broke.

It was able to eject the spent round, but due to the spring failing, and the barrel falling out of place during the reload, no round was able to be chambered.

 

[Booseman]

I know what happened to it, the lip holding the spring in place failed. I just wanted to post up the glocks malfunction/break. Fact is it broke.

It was able to eject the spent round, but due to the spring failing, and the barrel falling out of place during the reload, no round was able to be chambered.

I am tracking 100% That is why I added that part about +p rounds, that could be part of the reason. The simple truth of the matter is, it broke and your confidence in the gun has been shaken, correct?

I am not trying to make excuses for them (Glock).

 

[alpinehyperlite]

I've never really heard of a .40 + p round.

 

[Booseman]

I've never really heard of a .40 + p round.

Ok, I am an idiot!!! I was thinking 9mm for some reason. Forget everything I said and think of me as a troll in this thread.

I Sowy!!

 

[alpinehyperlite]

your thinking g26.

 

[Booseman]

Yeah, I'm an asshat!!

 

[Sin-ster]

You had a bad bit of plastic, exacerbated by the dual-captured RSA design in the sub-compact small frames. One in ten million issue, most likely.

Glock will fix you up with a new one with minimal hassel. You an also stock spares until they come out of your eyes, for less than a decently sized meal at McDonald's.

Take it from someone with several reduced weight, after market recoil springs with 4x+ the recommended rounds on them before replacement: You will be extremely hard pressed to actually cause yourself a problem through normal wear-and-tear on a Glock RSA, even with a steady diet of +p.

Now, that's not an excuse to ignore a replacement routine, and I couldn't tell you what that schedule is for the dual-captured Gen 3s. JBP could, though.

On a side note-- goes to show that the move to that design for all of the pistols may not have been the best decision. I've seen the single flat coiled RSA's melt, snap, or come apart and launch out of the front of the gun-- and the pistol just kept on running. Essentially, a non-captured spring and no issues.

 

[alpinehyperlite]

You had a bad bit of plastic,

Actually the retaining lip is metal. That's what surprised me. The replacements are only like $12 so I'm not that worried about it.

 

[Booseman]

Actually the retaining lip is metal. That's what surprised me. The replacements are only like $12 so I'm not that worried about it.

Just on GP I would definitely make Glock replace this part. For two reason's, 1) so they are aware of it and 2) so they have to stand behind their warranty. I would definitely mention that you are a LEO and that it was your EDC off duty.

 

[alpinehyperlite]

Does anyone have a good email for glock? I have tried their site, but they only have some pre formed looking generic request for info on their site.

 

[JR1572]

Does anyone have a good email for glock? I have tried their site, but they only have some pre formed looking generic request for info on their site.

Call glock and speak to someone on the phone. They may mail out a new RSA with the quickness.

JR1572

 

[chad]

It may have been a bad part. Seems to me, aside from maybe zealous dry-firing, why that part failed.

How would dry firing mess up the slide spring?