Not true. It will be worth considerably less even if the repair is flawless. Personal example:You aren't getting any bonuses for depreciation, your insurance serves to restore the vehicle to 100% USED condition. It won't be worth any less if the body shop does their job as compared to one that hasn't had a fender bender. This is a common misconception. I love Z's, (and yours is nice), but it's not a 60's classic that lost absolute resale value based on conditional history. Once fixed it'll be worth exactly what the blue book says its worth.
I can also tell you from the pictures posted (pending unseen damage) that its not even close to a total. Wife is an insurance MRR adjustor.
I'm pretty much planning on it unless I'm just fugly upside down, which I did trade into this car on the spur of the moment, so I may be a few thousand wrong-side up. We will see. Nothing really "jumps out" at me for a replacement. I would like to stay at $35K or below, and the Subaru BRZ STi was one I was heavily considering, but it's nowhere near out yet.
Suggestions?
Criteria: Power/Weight ratio of 9.5#/hp or better
Skidpad: Near 1G or better
Interior: Nice, suede, NAV, etc. similar to my Z
Lay-out: 2 seater preferred, RWD, would consider AWD, but the subaru's are too boxy for me.
I've seen a couple (non sti since it's not out yet) around here and they do look cool, went and read up on them and decided to keep my WRX.
Get another Z
or buy a WRX STi they're not pretty but they are fun.
Just read rest of thread, if you're going to get in the mountains get the AWD, RWD and FWD really suck in hilly places once ice sets in.
Another common misconception: you don't get to pick the shop. This one annoys almost every policy holder, but its clearly defined in your policy. You can make a strong argument for the dealership, but ultimately its the agent's decision who it goes to.
Don't fall for any ******** when they come back with x number for a replacement if they total it.
They'll try to give you significantly less than blue book trade-in.
Find a few shops selling 2012 370s with 17k on them and require that they give you that for the car.
They are under no obligation to REPLACE your car, but they are legally required to give fair market value.
This is RETAIL value.
DO NOT settle for their offer. String them along and make them pay for an equivalent rental for 30 days or until they pay.
When they offer you less than the average of those retail used equivalent 370s, just say NO over and over, reiterating that they are required to pay local fair market value according to Louisiana law.
If they won't, call the department of insurance and remember to record every conversation you have with the scumbags.
Your adjuster will be a great guy, the guy who calls with an offer will be an *******. He will place a lot of pressure and outright lie regarding laws. Record the conversation and do your research.
I've gotten at least 50% higher than initial offer and once within $400 of full brand-new MSRP on used totaled vehicles before.
For repairs, ignore the recommended shop and go with the best (most expensive and most to lose if something goes wrong) shop you can. And get multiple quotes. Pick the highest. Include the dealer.
It being a 2012 should cover the OEM without saying.Now I will chime THIS in: I've always wanted a black shelby GT500 with grey stripes and a white interior, like my grandfather had when I was a kid. If I buy a NEW one with those colors, options, etc... you sing the "sentimental" song, and about how "its a very rare combo because its my dream car and I'm just devastated" ...it goes unspoken, but we are generally a little more "giving" in such circumstances. However this again only applies to a total- not to repairs. Repairs your "sentimental" song will probably make them lean harder towards using all OEM parts as opposed to aftermarkets though.
post a thread on your test drives and your decision- i'd be curious how it goes. I'll be buying myself another speeding-ticket machine this year myself