AK Build
- Thread starter CajunTim
- Start date
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Where ever ya'll want to have the build is fine with me. I came home today and there was this package and I got all excited thinking it was my order nope books the wife ordered.
I called and they said it is scheduled to be delivered tomorrow. You said you had somethings for us to do for prep work on our kits, what is it? I know when my kit comes in I'm going to go stir crazy for the next 2+weeks.
I called and they said it is scheduled to be delivered tomorrow. You said you had somethings for us to do for prep work on our kits, what is it? I know when my kit comes in I'm going to go stir crazy for the next 2+weeks.
Before you can rebuild your kit into a rifle you have to remove the old rivets and the stubs of the old receiver from the parts that will be rebuilt into the rifle.
I start by using a dremel tool ($39 from Harborfreight) with cutoff wheels ($10 for 20 from Home Depot) to grind down the rivet heads on the receiver stubs and trigger guard.
Next I press out the barrel pin then the barrel (This step can be done later - in the shop.) Now I have a front trunnion with scrap metal on it and a rear trunnion with scrap metal on it and a trigger guard likewise.
A centerpunch and a hammer will knock out the short rivets (now ground down with NO heads). This is best done on a short piece of soft wood like a pine 2x4.
Finally the long rear trunnion rivet(s) has to be drilled out. This is best done with a drill press ($50 from Harborfreight). You clamp the trunnion in the drill press vise ($12 from Harborfreight), so the rivet is excatly perpendicular to the ground. Set the drill press on its second lowest speed (about 900 RPM) and using PLENTY of motor or cutting oil drill a hole though the rivet using a 1/8" cobalt bit. Usually at this point you can use a punch to fold over the edges of the drilled out rivet and punch it out. Alternately you can drill about 3/4 of the way through the rivet then use a very narrow punch to punch out the rivet. Some say this works better. I have not found it to be so.
At this point you should have two trunnions - one with a barrel attached (or not) and one rear trunnion from which you have carefully unscrewed and removed the stock. You should also have a trigger guard and its attached selector stop - a roughly 1"x3/4" plate that fits between the trigger guard and the receiver. These are the primary parts onto which you will build your rifle.
Finally you will have to press out the barrel pin then press out the barrel. The first time I did a rifle I used a 3lb maul and a punch made out of a $2 screwdriver that I cut up into a set of punches - one 1.5" long, one 1" long, one 1/2" long, and one 1/4" long. You can cut up the screwdriver using a circular saw and a cutoff wheel blade ($6 from Home Depot). Vise down the screwdriver, then cut away. It's important - very important that the ends of the punches be square so the punch stands perfectly straight up. This way when you apply pressure the punch won't lay over.
When you press out the barrel, remember to stack pennies on the breech or muzzle depending upon which way you're pressing - in or out. Never press directly on the muzzle or the breech. You will damage them.
If you want you can set up a time to come over and press out your barrel pins and barrels. If we try to do this at the build party you'll never get close to building rifles. #1Bambam and I will gladly meet with you to help demill your kits. Let us know if you need help.
I start by using a dremel tool ($39 from Harborfreight) with cutoff wheels ($10 for 20 from Home Depot) to grind down the rivet heads on the receiver stubs and trigger guard.
Next I press out the barrel pin then the barrel (This step can be done later - in the shop.) Now I have a front trunnion with scrap metal on it and a rear trunnion with scrap metal on it and a trigger guard likewise.
A centerpunch and a hammer will knock out the short rivets (now ground down with NO heads). This is best done on a short piece of soft wood like a pine 2x4.
Finally the long rear trunnion rivet(s) has to be drilled out. This is best done with a drill press ($50 from Harborfreight). You clamp the trunnion in the drill press vise ($12 from Harborfreight), so the rivet is excatly perpendicular to the ground. Set the drill press on its second lowest speed (about 900 RPM) and using PLENTY of motor or cutting oil drill a hole though the rivet using a 1/8" cobalt bit. Usually at this point you can use a punch to fold over the edges of the drilled out rivet and punch it out. Alternately you can drill about 3/4 of the way through the rivet then use a very narrow punch to punch out the rivet. Some say this works better. I have not found it to be so.
At this point you should have two trunnions - one with a barrel attached (or not) and one rear trunnion from which you have carefully unscrewed and removed the stock. You should also have a trigger guard and its attached selector stop - a roughly 1"x3/4" plate that fits between the trigger guard and the receiver. These are the primary parts onto which you will build your rifle.
Finally you will have to press out the barrel pin then press out the barrel. The first time I did a rifle I used a 3lb maul and a punch made out of a $2 screwdriver that I cut up into a set of punches - one 1.5" long, one 1" long, one 1/2" long, and one 1/4" long. You can cut up the screwdriver using a circular saw and a cutoff wheel blade ($6 from Home Depot). Vise down the screwdriver, then cut away. It's important - very important that the ends of the punches be square so the punch stands perfectly straight up. This way when you apply pressure the punch won't lay over.
When you press out the barrel, remember to stack pennies on the breech or muzzle depending upon which way you're pressing - in or out. Never press directly on the muzzle or the breech. You will damage them.
If you want you can set up a time to come over and press out your barrel pins and barrels. If we try to do this at the build party you'll never get close to building rifles. #1Bambam and I will gladly meet with you to help demill your kits. Let us know if you need help.
Cool, another experienced builder to help us nOObs along. If I hadn't already ordered my G Kit from APEX, I'd probably take you up on the offer.
So when we come down to the build, is there any tools we should bring? I can bring my dremel and anything else that I have...
BTW, does anyone have a 7mm reaming bit? If not, I need one for the flat I have, and I'll pick one up...
So when we come down to the build, is there any tools we should bring? I can bring my dremel and anything else that I have...
BTW, does anyone have a 7mm reaming bit? If not, I need one for the flat I have, and I'll pick one up...
My Rifle has reamers.Every dremmel will be handy.With My's help it will be much faster.
No where is Malton
I've got most every tool known to man. I've got Dremmels, drills, grinders ,welders, 20ton presses,clamps of all kinds and anything else you could need. Except those reamers. If we need something extra let me know
I have a scr "ewwww" build that I would like to change over to the rivets. I can easily disassemble the rifle except for pressing out the barrel and barrel pin. The only day I can make it will be the 29th. Will that be a problem? Or should I try again at a later date?
Pice of cake.Thats a quick job.
asianpersuasion
Well-Known Member
well looks like i'm out. the idea of not knowing if where i'll be in may bothers me too much. i'd hate to buy this stuff and waste bam's time for something i'll just have for a couple of months. maybe sometime after i learn where i'll be there might be another get together.
Where can you get $120 for 1080 of 7.62x39? Most of the place online have been closer to $160-$200 for 1000.
Thats too bad man .But we still dig ya.You know you could build it have fun until then and just let me hold on to it for you until you move back.LOL.
He is talking about 5.45x39
